Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from "I want food" to "will you play with me?" to "hello there". Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.
Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.
Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.
Cat Sense of Smell and Communication
A cat's sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.
Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.
Cat Talk and Hierarchy
Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.
Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don't live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer's status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.
Cat Communication and Territory
Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat's territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.
With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!
What is Cat Secret Talk?
Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from "I want food" to "will you play with me?" to "hello there". Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.
Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.
Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.
Cat Sense of Smell and Communication
A cat's sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.
Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.
Cat Talk and Hierarchy
Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.
Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don't live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer's status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.
Cat Communication and Territory
Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat's territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.
With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!
Thomas Kellerman has been training cats for many years. To find out more about cat secret talk and how they communicate, just visit: http://www.ourcatsecrets.com/cat-chat-how-cats-communicate.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Thomas_Kellerman
Kingdom of pets
26 February 2010
There Are No Bad Cats! (Behavior Problems and How to Solve Them)
Believe it or not, there are no bad cats. Cats are just unique. They live in a cat world and do what cats do, no matter what you try to say or do to convince them to adjust to your world. The most important thing for you as a cat parent is to understand why your cat does what it does. Cats do not go to obedience school. If they had their way, you as a pet parent would go to obedience school to learn how to deal with your pet.
A cat is not a dog; a cat does not act like a dog, think like a dog or behave like a dog. If you want a pet that behaves as a dog, get a dog not a cat. That said, let's get to the point of understanding cat behavior. Punishing a cat for wrong behavior is like trying to empty the ocean one-cup at a time. Try as you may, you will never empty the ocean or get your cat to understand why you are punishing him/her.
Punishment will never cure bad behavior; it will only make your cat frightened and leery of you. Cats are smart enough to know that once punished for a misdeed they will not do it again, in front of you. They will wait until your back is turned or you are out the door. Though you may believe your cat understands what you are saying, or rather yelling about, it will pay you no heed except to run away, ignore you or wait to do it again later.
A perfect example is our male cat Smokey, he dislikes our female cat Tiger and every chance he gets he will chase her. However, if he starts out to chase her and then sees me he stops, looks at me and then will turn away as if he was just out taking a walk. He knows I will say "No" quite loudly and scold him. Of course, it doesn't do any good to scold him, but it makes me feel better.
There are several good reasons why your cat does what it does to annoy you. First of all, cats really don't have a good grasp of the English language; they are not furry little people. However, they do understand positive and negative responses to their actions. Cats love praise, pets and treats and this is our secret weapon. Screaming, yelling, spanking or throwing (heaven forbid) will only traumatize your cat and make it fearful of you.
Stop for a moment and think about the life your cat is leading (okay, you wish you could lead that life) take into consideration its day. You are at work all day and may get home late and tired. Your fur ball has been sleeping all day and wants to play.
You want to sit, eat and watch TV. You give your cat a few pets and while you are doing that he/she gives you a little nip on your hand. You react by jumping up and possibly yelling and chasing him/her. Hey, this is fun your cat got your attention and you are "playing." We humans sometimes reward our cats for their bad behavior by giving them the attention they want.
In our house I am the perfect example of what not to do. Our Smokey is a night eater. Why? Cause he sleeps all day while I am at work. He started at a young age to come into our bedroom and nudge me with his head when he wanted to be fed, even though I would feed him before I went to sleep. Knowing what he wanted I would get up and feed him. This would happen several times a night and I would get up (truthfully this has been going on for years.)
However, since I started doing research for this book I suddenly came to realize that this is silly, the cat is not starving and I do not have to get up at all hours. I gradually started to push him away (nicely) whenever he nudged me and quietly said "No" as a result he moved over to the nightstand where he likes to sleep and laid down. It has been several weeks and he will once in a while nudge me and I say "no" and he goes away and waits until he sees me stir. Most cats when they are doing "wrong behavior" are really doing exactly what a cat should be doing.
Cats need to scratch and stretch their claws. It is a natural thing to do and it feels good. It is up to you as the pet parent to provide scratching material, whether it is the couch or a scratching post, it is immaterial to the cat. Cats learn by experience, if they do something and it turns out to be a good experience in their eyes, they will do it again, a bad experience may eliminate, the behavior or they just might try it again to see if something good happens.
One important thing to remember, if your cat suddenly starts doing things that he/she never attempted before and the behavior is not to your liking, observe the current situation in your household. Have there been sudden and unusual changes in the household routine, new furniture, new people or a new pet? Has there been a change in your cat's bathroom routine; is kitty eating, do you notice any changes in your cat's grooming habits?
It does not take much to disturb the serenity of a cat's world as cats like routine and changes can cause reactions, which are not always to their liking. Also, consider medical problems, your cat may not feeling well and this too can cause behavioral problems. Since cats cannot talk they may misbehave in order to show their concern or displeasure to the changes that have occurred.
Here are a few thoughts to keep in mind while you are trying to reform kitty.
First of all stop all reprimands and punishment-- they seldom do any good anyway. Make life with your cat fun and rewarding. Create an environment for yourself and your cat that satisfies you both. Remember a cat does not read minds and has little knowledge of English.
Help your cat understand what you want it to do by making the "yes" experiences rewarding and finding ways to eliminate most of the "no" experiences. We are going to list below some typical behavioral problems and possible solutions. It is important should you have any questions about your cat's behavior that you consult your vet to discuss it.
Aggressive behavior: Can be caused by fear, being disturbed when napping, injury or sickness, or being in a bad mood.
Solution: Should the cat nip or scratch you while petting, say NO and stop petting. Do not play rough with your cat as it does not know nice from not nice. Were you petting or scratching in
a sensitive area of the cat's body? If your cat hisses or its ears are flattened back, leave the cat alone. Check for injury.
Begging: Can be caused by the cat being hungry or just wanting attention.
Solution: Feed the cat just before your sit down to eat or if the begging is for attention take a minute or two to pet and talk to your cat a little quality attention will go a long ways.
Constant meowing: Females that are not spayed will meow constantly while looking for a "fellow." Or your cat may need some quality time with you, remember just a few minute of undivided attention will do wonders. Another thought is your cat may be ill or hurt.
Solution: Spay or neuter your cat (really should anyway), give your cat some quality time, cats need to know that they are loved, or your cat maybe sick or hurt, especially if the crying occurs when kitty is trying to go to the bathroom. If so, take a quick trip to the vet or call for advice.
Jumping on the counters and/or furniture: Cats love high places and cats are generally nosey, exploring is part of a cat's nature.
Solution: When it comes to the counters, stove and the dining table in our house, a consistent NO and placing the cat on the floor worked fine. It took several tries at this, but it worked. Another solution is put double sticky tape on the counter for a day or two, the cat will walk on it and get stuck, not a good experience and will stop, as it is no fun. Also keep food and other attractive smells off the counter or table. Things that make noise and may fall off the counter also work, as it will scare the cat. Cats do not like to be scared.
If your cat is getting on the furniture and you do not want that, provide a comfortable nesting place high up if possible. There are window seats that you can fasten to a window sill. We have a small bed on top of a section of our entertainment center where our female can escape.
If you have a particular piece of furniture you do not want the cat on, put foil, plastic or some inexpensive netting that you can buy at a fabric store over it when you are not at home. Cats do not like the feel of that and will stay off it and soon will ignore it. There are also things called "scat mats" which can be purchased on the Internet or at major pet stores.
Fighting with other cats: Cats are inclined to protect their habitat, they might be looking to mate, and some cats just want to show who is boss.
Solution: First of all spay or neuter your cat as they make much better pets and are less inclined to fight. Never break up a cat fight with your hands. Use a hose to spray them, throw a towel on them or make a loud noise to scare them. If your resident cats are having a dispute, separate them by putting them in separate rooms for a while. Usually they will simmer down and become tolerant of each other again.
In our household a sharp "No" works for a while with our male and female. Be certain to give each one plenty of affection, out of sight of each other. Some cats are like people and they just don't like each other no matter what you try to do.
In our household our female is wise enough to stay out of Smokey's reach. Smokey doesn't want to fight with her, he just wants to chase her.
Spraying: A cat operates on smell and spraying is a natural way to mark its territory. Also a cat will spray if it feels threatened, stressed or anxious.
Solution: Spay or neuter your pet to decrease the need to be overly territorial. Give your pet a lot of pets and attention, as it may feel stressed and/or unloved.
Provide a safe haven preferably high up (off the ground) if you pet feels threatened by another household pet.
If your cat is spraying near or on a window your pet may be marking its territory because of an outside cat. Keep curtains or drapes closed.
Do not punish your cat for spraying as it may increase his/her anxiety. Using a citrus-based cleaner will remove the scent and keep kitty hopefully from doing it again. We have found that the male cats usually do spraying, we have not seen our females do it, though they might. Interestingly, when our one male cat sprayed there was no odor after we had him neutered. However, the spraying left an oily substance that had to be cleaned up. There is a spray you can buy that has a calming effect on cats and has helped in stopping the spraying it is called "Feliway" and it can be purchased at major pet stores and on the Internet.
Scratching and tearing furniture: Scratching is a natural instinct of a cat. Boredom or a lack of a scratching post can cause the problem.
Solution: Scratching is part of a cat's life it provides exercise, an opportunity to stretch, relieves stress and allows them to shed their claws. If your cat is a house cat and does not have the opportunity to find a tree or post to scratch, it is up to you the pet parent to provide one. Cats are not overly particular about what they scratch as long as it fulfills its criteria.
Couches and stereo speakers fit the bill nicely. Providing a good scratching post (actually several are better) is a great alternative to your couch. You can make your own with a little effort or buy one at your favorite pet store. A good scratching post should be at least 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall, be sturdy enough so it won't fall over and scare the cat and be covered with either hemp rope or the reverse side of some leftover carpet.
Do not use the right side of the carpet for a post; use the backside as it provides the proper grabbing material. Actually you can make a post that lies on the floor, as long as it is long enough for the cat to stretch out on. There are some inexpensive ones made of cardboard that have a catnip scent that cats enjoy.
When teaching your cat to use the post it is a good idea to rub some catnip on it to attract the kitty. Whenever you see your cat using its post, praise the cat and give it a small treat, this conditions the cat into thinking this is a great thing to do. If you cat is scratching the furniture punishing will not help the matter. Remember that a cat knows better than to do something it has been reprimanded for in front of you.
If kitty is still going back to his/her old tricks the solution is to make the article of choice unacceptable. Cover it with a piece of plastic, foil, double-sided sticky tape or netting you can buy at a fabric store when you are not home. Continue to show kitty the scratching post, give praise and treats for using it, persistence pays on your part and soon kitty will leave your stuff alone.
Some people resort to having their pets declawed. We have a chapter on Declawing in this book. We do not recommend doing that, as there are other alternatives such as clipping your cat's nails or using the nail covers that are sold in pet stores and glue on the claws.
There are also spray repellents sold in pet stores to use on furniture that make the furniture unattractive to your cat. Scat mats are also available at major pet stores and on the Internet, they give a "static" type shock to the pet that climbs on it (it is not harmful, just annoying.) We have covered what we feel are the most common bad habits of cats in this chapter.
Cats really do not have any bad habits; the things they do are the things that, as one of nature's critters are natural to them. Climbing, hunting, spraying, biting, fighting, and clawing are all things the natural cat does. We have brought this magnificent creature in from the wild, domesticated it and demanded that it live by our rules. "We'll see," says the kitty as it settles down for a nap.
If this article has been of benefit, you might enjoy reading my book "So! You Want to Get a Cat" available on Amozon.com and please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Audrey_Frederick
A cat is not a dog; a cat does not act like a dog, think like a dog or behave like a dog. If you want a pet that behaves as a dog, get a dog not a cat. That said, let's get to the point of understanding cat behavior. Punishing a cat for wrong behavior is like trying to empty the ocean one-cup at a time. Try as you may, you will never empty the ocean or get your cat to understand why you are punishing him/her.
Punishment will never cure bad behavior; it will only make your cat frightened and leery of you. Cats are smart enough to know that once punished for a misdeed they will not do it again, in front of you. They will wait until your back is turned or you are out the door. Though you may believe your cat understands what you are saying, or rather yelling about, it will pay you no heed except to run away, ignore you or wait to do it again later.
A perfect example is our male cat Smokey, he dislikes our female cat Tiger and every chance he gets he will chase her. However, if he starts out to chase her and then sees me he stops, looks at me and then will turn away as if he was just out taking a walk. He knows I will say "No" quite loudly and scold him. Of course, it doesn't do any good to scold him, but it makes me feel better.
There are several good reasons why your cat does what it does to annoy you. First of all, cats really don't have a good grasp of the English language; they are not furry little people. However, they do understand positive and negative responses to their actions. Cats love praise, pets and treats and this is our secret weapon. Screaming, yelling, spanking or throwing (heaven forbid) will only traumatize your cat and make it fearful of you.
Stop for a moment and think about the life your cat is leading (okay, you wish you could lead that life) take into consideration its day. You are at work all day and may get home late and tired. Your fur ball has been sleeping all day and wants to play.
You want to sit, eat and watch TV. You give your cat a few pets and while you are doing that he/she gives you a little nip on your hand. You react by jumping up and possibly yelling and chasing him/her. Hey, this is fun your cat got your attention and you are "playing." We humans sometimes reward our cats for their bad behavior by giving them the attention they want.
In our house I am the perfect example of what not to do. Our Smokey is a night eater. Why? Cause he sleeps all day while I am at work. He started at a young age to come into our bedroom and nudge me with his head when he wanted to be fed, even though I would feed him before I went to sleep. Knowing what he wanted I would get up and feed him. This would happen several times a night and I would get up (truthfully this has been going on for years.)
However, since I started doing research for this book I suddenly came to realize that this is silly, the cat is not starving and I do not have to get up at all hours. I gradually started to push him away (nicely) whenever he nudged me and quietly said "No" as a result he moved over to the nightstand where he likes to sleep and laid down. It has been several weeks and he will once in a while nudge me and I say "no" and he goes away and waits until he sees me stir. Most cats when they are doing "wrong behavior" are really doing exactly what a cat should be doing.
Cats need to scratch and stretch their claws. It is a natural thing to do and it feels good. It is up to you as the pet parent to provide scratching material, whether it is the couch or a scratching post, it is immaterial to the cat. Cats learn by experience, if they do something and it turns out to be a good experience in their eyes, they will do it again, a bad experience may eliminate, the behavior or they just might try it again to see if something good happens.
One important thing to remember, if your cat suddenly starts doing things that he/she never attempted before and the behavior is not to your liking, observe the current situation in your household. Have there been sudden and unusual changes in the household routine, new furniture, new people or a new pet? Has there been a change in your cat's bathroom routine; is kitty eating, do you notice any changes in your cat's grooming habits?
It does not take much to disturb the serenity of a cat's world as cats like routine and changes can cause reactions, which are not always to their liking. Also, consider medical problems, your cat may not feeling well and this too can cause behavioral problems. Since cats cannot talk they may misbehave in order to show their concern or displeasure to the changes that have occurred.
Here are a few thoughts to keep in mind while you are trying to reform kitty.
First of all stop all reprimands and punishment-- they seldom do any good anyway. Make life with your cat fun and rewarding. Create an environment for yourself and your cat that satisfies you both. Remember a cat does not read minds and has little knowledge of English.
Help your cat understand what you want it to do by making the "yes" experiences rewarding and finding ways to eliminate most of the "no" experiences. We are going to list below some typical behavioral problems and possible solutions. It is important should you have any questions about your cat's behavior that you consult your vet to discuss it.
Aggressive behavior: Can be caused by fear, being disturbed when napping, injury or sickness, or being in a bad mood.
Solution: Should the cat nip or scratch you while petting, say NO and stop petting. Do not play rough with your cat as it does not know nice from not nice. Were you petting or scratching in
a sensitive area of the cat's body? If your cat hisses or its ears are flattened back, leave the cat alone. Check for injury.
Begging: Can be caused by the cat being hungry or just wanting attention.
Solution: Feed the cat just before your sit down to eat or if the begging is for attention take a minute or two to pet and talk to your cat a little quality attention will go a long ways.
Constant meowing: Females that are not spayed will meow constantly while looking for a "fellow." Or your cat may need some quality time with you, remember just a few minute of undivided attention will do wonders. Another thought is your cat may be ill or hurt.
Solution: Spay or neuter your cat (really should anyway), give your cat some quality time, cats need to know that they are loved, or your cat maybe sick or hurt, especially if the crying occurs when kitty is trying to go to the bathroom. If so, take a quick trip to the vet or call for advice.
Jumping on the counters and/or furniture: Cats love high places and cats are generally nosey, exploring is part of a cat's nature.
Solution: When it comes to the counters, stove and the dining table in our house, a consistent NO and placing the cat on the floor worked fine. It took several tries at this, but it worked. Another solution is put double sticky tape on the counter for a day or two, the cat will walk on it and get stuck, not a good experience and will stop, as it is no fun. Also keep food and other attractive smells off the counter or table. Things that make noise and may fall off the counter also work, as it will scare the cat. Cats do not like to be scared.
If your cat is getting on the furniture and you do not want that, provide a comfortable nesting place high up if possible. There are window seats that you can fasten to a window sill. We have a small bed on top of a section of our entertainment center where our female can escape.
If you have a particular piece of furniture you do not want the cat on, put foil, plastic or some inexpensive netting that you can buy at a fabric store over it when you are not at home. Cats do not like the feel of that and will stay off it and soon will ignore it. There are also things called "scat mats" which can be purchased on the Internet or at major pet stores.
Fighting with other cats: Cats are inclined to protect their habitat, they might be looking to mate, and some cats just want to show who is boss.
Solution: First of all spay or neuter your cat as they make much better pets and are less inclined to fight. Never break up a cat fight with your hands. Use a hose to spray them, throw a towel on them or make a loud noise to scare them. If your resident cats are having a dispute, separate them by putting them in separate rooms for a while. Usually they will simmer down and become tolerant of each other again.
In our household a sharp "No" works for a while with our male and female. Be certain to give each one plenty of affection, out of sight of each other. Some cats are like people and they just don't like each other no matter what you try to do.
In our household our female is wise enough to stay out of Smokey's reach. Smokey doesn't want to fight with her, he just wants to chase her.
Spraying: A cat operates on smell and spraying is a natural way to mark its territory. Also a cat will spray if it feels threatened, stressed or anxious.
Solution: Spay or neuter your pet to decrease the need to be overly territorial. Give your pet a lot of pets and attention, as it may feel stressed and/or unloved.
Provide a safe haven preferably high up (off the ground) if you pet feels threatened by another household pet.
If your cat is spraying near or on a window your pet may be marking its territory because of an outside cat. Keep curtains or drapes closed.
Do not punish your cat for spraying as it may increase his/her anxiety. Using a citrus-based cleaner will remove the scent and keep kitty hopefully from doing it again. We have found that the male cats usually do spraying, we have not seen our females do it, though they might. Interestingly, when our one male cat sprayed there was no odor after we had him neutered. However, the spraying left an oily substance that had to be cleaned up. There is a spray you can buy that has a calming effect on cats and has helped in stopping the spraying it is called "Feliway" and it can be purchased at major pet stores and on the Internet.
Scratching and tearing furniture: Scratching is a natural instinct of a cat. Boredom or a lack of a scratching post can cause the problem.
Solution: Scratching is part of a cat's life it provides exercise, an opportunity to stretch, relieves stress and allows them to shed their claws. If your cat is a house cat and does not have the opportunity to find a tree or post to scratch, it is up to you the pet parent to provide one. Cats are not overly particular about what they scratch as long as it fulfills its criteria.
Couches and stereo speakers fit the bill nicely. Providing a good scratching post (actually several are better) is a great alternative to your couch. You can make your own with a little effort or buy one at your favorite pet store. A good scratching post should be at least 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall, be sturdy enough so it won't fall over and scare the cat and be covered with either hemp rope or the reverse side of some leftover carpet.
Do not use the right side of the carpet for a post; use the backside as it provides the proper grabbing material. Actually you can make a post that lies on the floor, as long as it is long enough for the cat to stretch out on. There are some inexpensive ones made of cardboard that have a catnip scent that cats enjoy.
When teaching your cat to use the post it is a good idea to rub some catnip on it to attract the kitty. Whenever you see your cat using its post, praise the cat and give it a small treat, this conditions the cat into thinking this is a great thing to do. If you cat is scratching the furniture punishing will not help the matter. Remember that a cat knows better than to do something it has been reprimanded for in front of you.
If kitty is still going back to his/her old tricks the solution is to make the article of choice unacceptable. Cover it with a piece of plastic, foil, double-sided sticky tape or netting you can buy at a fabric store when you are not home. Continue to show kitty the scratching post, give praise and treats for using it, persistence pays on your part and soon kitty will leave your stuff alone.
Some people resort to having their pets declawed. We have a chapter on Declawing in this book. We do not recommend doing that, as there are other alternatives such as clipping your cat's nails or using the nail covers that are sold in pet stores and glue on the claws.
There are also spray repellents sold in pet stores to use on furniture that make the furniture unattractive to your cat. Scat mats are also available at major pet stores and on the Internet, they give a "static" type shock to the pet that climbs on it (it is not harmful, just annoying.) We have covered what we feel are the most common bad habits of cats in this chapter.
Cats really do not have any bad habits; the things they do are the things that, as one of nature's critters are natural to them. Climbing, hunting, spraying, biting, fighting, and clawing are all things the natural cat does. We have brought this magnificent creature in from the wild, domesticated it and demanded that it live by our rules. "We'll see," says the kitty as it settles down for a nap.
If this article has been of benefit, you might enjoy reading my book "So! You Want to Get a Cat" available on Amozon.com and please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Audrey_Frederick
24 February 2010
Why Cats Flip For Catnip
If you've ever watched as a cat "flipped" over fresh catnip perhaps you've been struck with the question; "what causes Catnip to affect cats that way?" Catnip is indeed an unusual phenomenon among cats, it has the ability to alter your cat's behavior like nothing else can. So what exactly is the reason for what scientists have coined as "the Catnip effect"?
Unfortunately for such inquisitive minds the exact reason of why Catnip affects cats
in such a manner remains mostly a mystery. There is however much that we do
know about Catnip and cats even if we don't have the ultimate answer of exactly
"why?" yet answered.
The Science Stuff
Catnip is scientifically classified as Nepeta cataria and is a perennial herb from
the
mint family and is in fact also referred to as "Catmint". It is a plant indigenous to
Europe but has been exported and is now found all over including the United States
and Canada.
The active ingredient in Catnip is an oil; Nepetalactone, which is found in the leaves
of the plant. This is the reason you are able to find Catnip in a bottle or spray form
in some pet stores.
Other Uses For Catnip
Catnip is not only good to stimulate activity in cats, it can also be used by
humans
as an herb for a medicinal tea which may soothe toothaches, help against coughs,
and may also perform as a sleep aid. Furthermore, Catnip can be used as an herb
on salads or other foods as has been the case for centuries in France. Lately Catnip
has also been garnering favor as a natural insect repellant rivaling the effectiveness
of many store bought varieties of repellant.
Catnip and Kitty
Catnip affects approximately half of all cats. What determines whether or not
a cat
will react to Catnip is a genome that is inherited (or not inherited as the case may
be) at birth. Kittens, regardless of whether or not they carry this genome, do not
react to Catnip until reaching about 3 or 4 months of age and becoming sexually
mature. Older cats are also more likely to have a diminished or non-existing
reaction to Catnip, which leads scientists to believe that the Catnip effect is based at
least partially on sexuality and that the reaction may be something like an
aphrodisiac. Further adding to this belief is the similarity of a sexual pheromone
found in the urine of the male cat to nepetalactone (the active product in Catnip).
Cats that can be traced to regions where Catnip is not indigenous appear to be
unaffected by Catnip. The domesticated housecat is not the only cat that may be
affected by Catnip. Larger cats can also be affected by the Catnip effect, felines
such as the bobcat, lynx, tiger and even lion are known to react much the same way
the common housecat would. It is interesting to note that while Catnip can act as a
stimulant when a cat sniffs it, it can conversely act as a relaxant if ingested.
Therefore, you may see a different, nearly opposite result depending on whether
your cat chooses to eat the Catnip you provide for him/her or merely sniffs it (the
latter being the more typical behavior).
How to Use Catnip With Your Cat
Catnip can prove to be a very useful tool for a few common problems with
your cat.
If you are lucky enough to have a cat that does react favorably to Catnip then here
are a couple of ideas for you and your furry little friend.
Catnip and Lazy Cats:
Catnip can be used to get a lazy cat off his or her butt. Some cats are
notoriously
lazy, choosing to sleep much of their day away in a nice golden patch of sunlight on
the living room carpet, only waking up to eat and gather some necessary attention
from their indulgent owners. If this sounds like your cat, you may soon see (if you
haven't already) that your cat is becoming more and more round. This is generally
not a good thing. Catnip may be able to help. Presenting catnip to your cat
encourages activity (of course provided the cat sniffs rather than eats the herb).
Many adult cats will respond to Catnip in a manner that resembles their childlike
kitten hyperactivity, jumping, playing and running around as if it was given an
injection of kitty adrenaline, which in essence, is the case. The effect of Catnip on a
cat can last somewhere between two and fifteen minutes. If the latter is the case,
then this is a decent amount of exercise and will help keep your cat a little more
svelte than without a Catnip treatment. Furthermore, if you leave the Catnip out for
a few hours then your cat may return to the herb later (an hour or two after the
effect has worn off) and again react in an energetic fashion. So in this sense you
may consider Catnip sort of like a kitty energy drink.
Catnip and Cats That Scratch Furniture:
If you have a cat that seems bent on the destruction of your furniture then
Catnip
may again be able to come to the rescue. Cats can be frustratingly picky about just
about anything under the sun including where they want to sharpen their furniture
destroying claws. It is not uncommon for a cat to damage or destroy a piece of
furniture just because the owners finally gave up on trying to redirect their cat to
the unused cat scratching post that set them back anywhere up to a hundred dollars
and more. A good way to attempt to change this frustrating and expensive behavior
is to rub some Catnip or Catnip oil on a scratching post that you are attempting to
get the cat to use. Introduce your cat to the newly "Catnipped" scratching post and
see how he/she reacts. If all goes well, your cat will sniff and inspect the post and
then begin clawing at it. After a few times (you may have to re-Catnip the post)
hopefully kitty will be trained to use the post rather than the sofa.
Using Catnip with Multiple Cats
If you've never used Catnip before and you have more than one cat it is
advisable to
try it out individually on each cat before introducing it to all of your cats at the same
time. The reason is because Catnip affects some cats in a negative manner causing
the cat in question to become aggressive rather than merely playful. Introducing it
to your cats individually enables you to control the situation and keep a cat that may
react aggressively isolated from your other cats. This of course means avoiding a
possible catfight that could result in broken furniture, hurt kitties (possibly
requiring a vet visit), annoyed neighbors (and probably owners), or a combination of
all of the above.
Growing and Keeping Catnip
Growing your own Catnip can be rewarding as it can save you money, give you
the
satisfaction of doing something yourself and ensuring that you always get fresh,
high-quality Catnip for your cat. A word of caution however; the exact kitty
reaction you want to grow your own Catnip is something to be wary of. If you plan
on growing your Catnip out of doors and other cats can access your Catnip garden
then be prepared for unwelcome feline visitors. This may not be a problem for you
personally, but cats are by nature territorial and if you have a cat that lives alone
without the company of other cats this could prove to be an area of stress for your
cat. Even if you keep your cat inside at all times, your cat may get agitated if he/she
looks out the window to see another cat frolicking in territory your cat considers his
or her own. If you choose to grow your Catnip indoors, be careful to keep it out of
reach of kitty. Otherwise you'll likely have Fluffy jumping up on furniture even to
the most out of the way place to get access to the tempting herb. Cats are great
jumpers and not really known for respecting precious household knick-knacks. So
if you do decide to grow it indoors for a cat that reacts to Catnip, be careful to grow
it in a place that your cat won't be able to access it. A room that you always keep
closed to the cat is probably the best solution for indoor grown Catnip.
If you do find that your cat reacts positively to Catnip you should be sure to use it
sparingly so as not to dull the effect which can be the result of overexposure. A
good rule of thumb is to not treat your kitty more than once a week on average to
Catnip.
Given all the positive effects that Catnip may have on your cat you owe it to yourself
(and naturally your fluffy little ball of affection) to see how he/she reacts to this
strange and well known herb. It will provide enjoyment and exercise for your cat
and most likely an entertaining show for yourself as well. It's a win win situation.
Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Markison
Unfortunately for such inquisitive minds the exact reason of why Catnip affects cats
in such a manner remains mostly a mystery. There is however much that we do
know about Catnip and cats even if we don't have the ultimate answer of exactly
"why?" yet answered.
The Science Stuff
Catnip is scientifically classified as Nepeta cataria and is a perennial herb from
the
mint family and is in fact also referred to as "Catmint". It is a plant indigenous to
Europe but has been exported and is now found all over including the United States
and Canada.
The active ingredient in Catnip is an oil; Nepetalactone, which is found in the leaves
of the plant. This is the reason you are able to find Catnip in a bottle or spray form
in some pet stores.
Other Uses For Catnip
Catnip is not only good to stimulate activity in cats, it can also be used by
humans
as an herb for a medicinal tea which may soothe toothaches, help against coughs,
and may also perform as a sleep aid. Furthermore, Catnip can be used as an herb
on salads or other foods as has been the case for centuries in France. Lately Catnip
has also been garnering favor as a natural insect repellant rivaling the effectiveness
of many store bought varieties of repellant.
Catnip and Kitty
Catnip affects approximately half of all cats. What determines whether or not
a cat
will react to Catnip is a genome that is inherited (or not inherited as the case may
be) at birth. Kittens, regardless of whether or not they carry this genome, do not
react to Catnip until reaching about 3 or 4 months of age and becoming sexually
mature. Older cats are also more likely to have a diminished or non-existing
reaction to Catnip, which leads scientists to believe that the Catnip effect is based at
least partially on sexuality and that the reaction may be something like an
aphrodisiac. Further adding to this belief is the similarity of a sexual pheromone
found in the urine of the male cat to nepetalactone (the active product in Catnip).
Cats that can be traced to regions where Catnip is not indigenous appear to be
unaffected by Catnip. The domesticated housecat is not the only cat that may be
affected by Catnip. Larger cats can also be affected by the Catnip effect, felines
such as the bobcat, lynx, tiger and even lion are known to react much the same way
the common housecat would. It is interesting to note that while Catnip can act as a
stimulant when a cat sniffs it, it can conversely act as a relaxant if ingested.
Therefore, you may see a different, nearly opposite result depending on whether
your cat chooses to eat the Catnip you provide for him/her or merely sniffs it (the
latter being the more typical behavior).
How to Use Catnip With Your Cat
Catnip can prove to be a very useful tool for a few common problems with
your cat.
If you are lucky enough to have a cat that does react favorably to Catnip then here
are a couple of ideas for you and your furry little friend.
Catnip and Lazy Cats:
Catnip can be used to get a lazy cat off his or her butt. Some cats are
notoriously
lazy, choosing to sleep much of their day away in a nice golden patch of sunlight on
the living room carpet, only waking up to eat and gather some necessary attention
from their indulgent owners. If this sounds like your cat, you may soon see (if you
haven't already) that your cat is becoming more and more round. This is generally
not a good thing. Catnip may be able to help. Presenting catnip to your cat
encourages activity (of course provided the cat sniffs rather than eats the herb).
Many adult cats will respond to Catnip in a manner that resembles their childlike
kitten hyperactivity, jumping, playing and running around as if it was given an
injection of kitty adrenaline, which in essence, is the case. The effect of Catnip on a
cat can last somewhere between two and fifteen minutes. If the latter is the case,
then this is a decent amount of exercise and will help keep your cat a little more
svelte than without a Catnip treatment. Furthermore, if you leave the Catnip out for
a few hours then your cat may return to the herb later (an hour or two after the
effect has worn off) and again react in an energetic fashion. So in this sense you
may consider Catnip sort of like a kitty energy drink.
Catnip and Cats That Scratch Furniture:
If you have a cat that seems bent on the destruction of your furniture then
Catnip
may again be able to come to the rescue. Cats can be frustratingly picky about just
about anything under the sun including where they want to sharpen their furniture
destroying claws. It is not uncommon for a cat to damage or destroy a piece of
furniture just because the owners finally gave up on trying to redirect their cat to
the unused cat scratching post that set them back anywhere up to a hundred dollars
and more. A good way to attempt to change this frustrating and expensive behavior
is to rub some Catnip or Catnip oil on a scratching post that you are attempting to
get the cat to use. Introduce your cat to the newly "Catnipped" scratching post and
see how he/she reacts. If all goes well, your cat will sniff and inspect the post and
then begin clawing at it. After a few times (you may have to re-Catnip the post)
hopefully kitty will be trained to use the post rather than the sofa.
Using Catnip with Multiple Cats
If you've never used Catnip before and you have more than one cat it is
advisable to
try it out individually on each cat before introducing it to all of your cats at the same
time. The reason is because Catnip affects some cats in a negative manner causing
the cat in question to become aggressive rather than merely playful. Introducing it
to your cats individually enables you to control the situation and keep a cat that may
react aggressively isolated from your other cats. This of course means avoiding a
possible catfight that could result in broken furniture, hurt kitties (possibly
requiring a vet visit), annoyed neighbors (and probably owners), or a combination of
all of the above.
Growing and Keeping Catnip
Growing your own Catnip can be rewarding as it can save you money, give you
the
satisfaction of doing something yourself and ensuring that you always get fresh,
high-quality Catnip for your cat. A word of caution however; the exact kitty
reaction you want to grow your own Catnip is something to be wary of. If you plan
on growing your Catnip out of doors and other cats can access your Catnip garden
then be prepared for unwelcome feline visitors. This may not be a problem for you
personally, but cats are by nature territorial and if you have a cat that lives alone
without the company of other cats this could prove to be an area of stress for your
cat. Even if you keep your cat inside at all times, your cat may get agitated if he/she
looks out the window to see another cat frolicking in territory your cat considers his
or her own. If you choose to grow your Catnip indoors, be careful to keep it out of
reach of kitty. Otherwise you'll likely have Fluffy jumping up on furniture even to
the most out of the way place to get access to the tempting herb. Cats are great
jumpers and not really known for respecting precious household knick-knacks. So
if you do decide to grow it indoors for a cat that reacts to Catnip, be careful to grow
it in a place that your cat won't be able to access it. A room that you always keep
closed to the cat is probably the best solution for indoor grown Catnip.
If you do find that your cat reacts positively to Catnip you should be sure to use it
sparingly so as not to dull the effect which can be the result of overexposure. A
good rule of thumb is to not treat your kitty more than once a week on average to
Catnip.
Given all the positive effects that Catnip may have on your cat you owe it to yourself
(and naturally your fluffy little ball of affection) to see how he/she reacts to this
strange and well known herb. It will provide enjoyment and exercise for your cat
and most likely an entertaining show for yourself as well. It's a win win situation.
Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Markison
Why Is Your Cat Overweight?
Food
Dry food has been a recommended staple diet for cats by many experts for a number of years. It is an easy option to leave a bowl of dry food out constantly; something that cannot be done with tinned food. Unfortunately though, it's not a natural food source and has been developed by humans using many additives and un-natural products. Cats, like humans, will eat until they fill themselves up. However, dry food has many more calories and carbohydrates than a natural food source, which leads to the cat taking in far more than necessary just to feel full-up. Many owners assume that their cat is just greedy, but in many cases it is not the quantity of food being eaten, it is the quality.
Naturally, cats are obligate carnivores; meaning they only feed on other animals. The cats prey however, are generally herbivorous and have various vegetable and plant matter in their guts. All of which, will be consumed by the cat. Domestic cats have been shown to have longer intestines than wild cats; proving they have evolved over hundreds of years to cope with more plant and vegetable matter (carbohydrates). Still, this is no excuse to turn a carnivore into an omnivore. Rather, supplementing the diet with small amounts of carbohydrates is acceptable.
Many consumers believe that dried food is actually better for cats. The manufacturers have implemented the belief that all these additives such as corn and grains are an important part of a cat's diet, implying 'the more the better' approach. Although very small quantities of these may benefit the cat, too much will be detrimental to their health.
Kidney disease is one of, if not the biggest killer in cats. Kidney disease is usually a result of lack of water and unfortunately, cats have a very low thirst drive. Although they may drink when eating dry food, they will generally only take in half of the liquid necessary for their health. A cat's prey item consists of around 75% water, canned and raw foods have a similar amount. Dry foods on the other hand usually have a maximum of 10% water content. It is obvious therefore, that canned or raw foods are an absolute must to maintain a healthy cat.
Cats need a high level of protein in their diet which must come from animals. Plant protein differs from meat protein, and should not be substituted. When protein is calculated in canned food, the moisture content must be subtracted from 100 and the protein percentage worked out from the result. For instance, a canned food with 8% protein and 75% water means that the true protein value should be worked out like so:
Non-Moisture Content = 25% so: 8 ÷ 25 x 100 = 32
Therefore: True Protein Value = 32% which is ideal.
The amino acid 'taurine' is also an essential part of a cat's diet, and can only be found in meat products. It is recommended that a quantity of 2000mg/kg or 0.2% should be available in canned food. Other vitamins and minerals should also be included. Preservatives, colouring and added flavours are used more for the customers benefit rather than the cats. If it looks and smells nice to a human, there is a higher chance of them buying it.
There are very few foods on the market which actually have an ideal amount of everything included. Many diets have concentrated on having high a protein and moisture diet with low carbohydrates, but lack in having enough taurine or vitamin B. If this is the case, offering other canned foods on occasion that are better in these areas should be considered. This will also help stop the cat becoming addicted to any 1 food type. Inter-changing the various meats such as beef, chicken and fish will also benefit by offering varying amounts of vitamins, minerals and oils.
Buy quality, not quantity. Most cheap cat foods are cheap for a reason. Avoid buying canned foods that say 'meat', 'by-products', 'bone meal' or 'animal digest'. Chemical preservatives such as 'BHA', 'BHT', 'ethoxyquin' and 'propyl gallate' have been seriously questioned as being detrimental to the health of cats, and should also be avoided. Canned foods are a must for adding much needed calcium into the diet, which is essential for building healthy bones and teeth.
High energy food has been designed for cats with high energy levels. This food will not benefit a cat which sits around all day, in fact in will make the situation worse. High energy foods will not make a less active cat become energetic.
There is a common misconception that canned food is bad for your cat's teeth, and dry food is good. Unfortunately neither statement is completely true. Neither food types are actually good for the health of teeth. Dry food is hard and crunchy, completely the opposite of what a cat's teeth are designed to do, which is tear away at meat. I recommend you brush and rinse your cat's teeth on a regular occasion.
There are two methods to feeding a cat. The first is to leave a bowl of food out all the time. This is obviously done with dry food and not meat. Since we recommend feeding a diet of canned or raw meat, this method is not acceptable and you should opt for the second method. This is to have a feeding regime of 2 to 4 times per day. Feeding this way allows a more controlled amount of food being eaten. You need to decide how many times per day you will feed your cat. The more often the better, but if you are an owner which is out during the day several times a week, it may be better to opt for a twice a day routine. Alternatively, cat feeding dishes which are set on a timer can be purchased and are a good option if you only go out on occasions.
The total amount of canned food your cat should is listed below. It is important to divide this total amount of food up equally among all of its feeds. The chart below is appropriate to cats that are getting their appropriate amount of calorie intake per day, which is approximately 25 calories per pound in weight. This chart is for healthy adult cats weighing approximately 8-10lbs. Not overweight or obese cats.
Type / Age of Cat Weight of Canned Food
2 - 10 Years 200g
Geriatric (10 Years +) 160g
Neutered or Spayed 160g
Inactive or Indoor 160g
Treats
Treats are given to cats for different reasons depending on the owner. Surveys have shown that overweight humans are more likely to have overweight pets. They show that overweight people are unable to control their own weight properly due to lack of will power. They have the same lack of will power when their pets are 'begging' for treats.
Treats are often given because it is a way of making the pet feel more welcome. If the owner is out of the house all day, they often make up for it by giving treats. This is the easy way of doing things and totally unhealthy. Rather, making up for it by spending just 5 quality minutes with the pet is far more rewarding. You may decide to simply brush the cat, or you could play with it by throwing a small toy mouse or ball around. Either way, the cat will enjoy being with you more than it will eating a treat, and exercise will aid its health.
Some owners offer treats because they think the cat doesn't eat enough dinner. The treats are designed and flavoured to be 'irresistible' to the cat, and they will eat it whether they are hungry or not. Treats should not be offered for this reason. Providing your cat looks healthy and is the appropriate weight, it will be feeding just fine. If your cat is a poor feeder, they should be tempted by other feeding methods, not with treats.
Higher Risk Cats
Neutered or Spayed
I would like to point out before anything, that the act of neutering or spaying your cat will not make it overweight. Rather, it is how you care for it afterwards that will affect its weight.
A neutered cat loses its desire to 'roam' like an 'intact' cat would do. They are not as inquisitive and generally get less exercise than intact cats. Because of this, their metabolism is slower than normal by around 20-25%. With a slower metabolism, comes a lower need for calories. A neutered or spayed cat should intake approximately 20% less calories.
Breed
Some breeds of cat are naturally slimmer than other breeds; such as the Siamese and Ornamental Short Hair. These breeds are far better at maintaining a good body condition than larger breeds. Pedigree cats are also generally fitter than non-pedigree individuals.
Age
Cats are most likely to become overweight from about 2 to 12 years of age. Younger cats have a much higher metabolism and are more energetic than older individuals. Older cats often eat far less, and it is more common for geriatric cats to become skinnier rather than heavier.
Indoor Cats
Indoor cats have many factors weighing them down. To start with, the most obvious factor is being indoors all the time. There is little stimulation inside, and they will not get the exercise that an outdoor cat will be able to. Many static toys that are offered to indoor cats become boring. They will soon lose interest in scratching posts and similar toys. Repetitive electronic toys can also become predictable and boring. The most enjoyable form of playing for the cat is to interact with the owner. Waving string around or rolling a small ball around will keep the cat amused for far longer.
Being inside all the time also means more contact with the owner is likely. This usually means more treats are given.
The temperature is an important factor too. An outdoor cat will use more energy and have a higher metabolism simply to maintain its body temperature. Cats living in centrally heated houses don't have to use much energy to get their body temperature controlled.
Social Environment
This is an area where you just can't win. There are advantages and disadvantages of having one cat or having multiple cats.
Only cats do not have the same competition for food that a multi-cat household may have. Therefore they may not be as eager to eat as much food and as quickly as a cat in competition with other cats will do. However, only cats are more likely to become bored and have less stimulation around them compared to a cat living with others. Cats have been known to take on habits like humans, such as eating when bored like an only cat may do. They may also eat more when they are stressed, like a cat living in a multi-cat household may do.
A household with more humans is far more likely to inflict extra weight onto a cat. It means more people offering treats, and more people to feed the cat dinner. It is common for many households to become confused as to whether or not the cat has been fed, and if in doubt they will feed it again.
Disabilities
This applies to humans and pets alike. Humans with physical disabilities are less likely to play and exercise their pets. The situation becomes worse if the cat is an indoor cat.
Disabled cats are often 'over-protected' by their owners. Most are automatically turned into indoor cats if they get a disability, and become an excuse for more treats to be offered. Most cats can still exercise and have their mind stimulated with various disabilities. In fact many cats with disabilities will deteriorate quicker if they are not exercised and the mind stimulated properly.
Neighbours
Do you have cat friendly neighbours? Do you know if your cat has gone into other people's houses before? It is common for other cat lovers to feed a cat that has wondered into their house.
If you think this happens, place a tag onto the cat which is clearly visible and ask politely not to feed the cat. Some people will ignore this, thinking it will not do any harm. To get around this, state that you cat has 'Special Dietary Needs'. They are more likely to pay attention when they think feeding them the wrong food could potentially harm them.
By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_M_Jones
Dry food has been a recommended staple diet for cats by many experts for a number of years. It is an easy option to leave a bowl of dry food out constantly; something that cannot be done with tinned food. Unfortunately though, it's not a natural food source and has been developed by humans using many additives and un-natural products. Cats, like humans, will eat until they fill themselves up. However, dry food has many more calories and carbohydrates than a natural food source, which leads to the cat taking in far more than necessary just to feel full-up. Many owners assume that their cat is just greedy, but in many cases it is not the quantity of food being eaten, it is the quality.
Naturally, cats are obligate carnivores; meaning they only feed on other animals. The cats prey however, are generally herbivorous and have various vegetable and plant matter in their guts. All of which, will be consumed by the cat. Domestic cats have been shown to have longer intestines than wild cats; proving they have evolved over hundreds of years to cope with more plant and vegetable matter (carbohydrates). Still, this is no excuse to turn a carnivore into an omnivore. Rather, supplementing the diet with small amounts of carbohydrates is acceptable.
Many consumers believe that dried food is actually better for cats. The manufacturers have implemented the belief that all these additives such as corn and grains are an important part of a cat's diet, implying 'the more the better' approach. Although very small quantities of these may benefit the cat, too much will be detrimental to their health.
Kidney disease is one of, if not the biggest killer in cats. Kidney disease is usually a result of lack of water and unfortunately, cats have a very low thirst drive. Although they may drink when eating dry food, they will generally only take in half of the liquid necessary for their health. A cat's prey item consists of around 75% water, canned and raw foods have a similar amount. Dry foods on the other hand usually have a maximum of 10% water content. It is obvious therefore, that canned or raw foods are an absolute must to maintain a healthy cat.
Cats need a high level of protein in their diet which must come from animals. Plant protein differs from meat protein, and should not be substituted. When protein is calculated in canned food, the moisture content must be subtracted from 100 and the protein percentage worked out from the result. For instance, a canned food with 8% protein and 75% water means that the true protein value should be worked out like so:
Non-Moisture Content = 25% so: 8 ÷ 25 x 100 = 32
Therefore: True Protein Value = 32% which is ideal.
The amino acid 'taurine' is also an essential part of a cat's diet, and can only be found in meat products. It is recommended that a quantity of 2000mg/kg or 0.2% should be available in canned food. Other vitamins and minerals should also be included. Preservatives, colouring and added flavours are used more for the customers benefit rather than the cats. If it looks and smells nice to a human, there is a higher chance of them buying it.
There are very few foods on the market which actually have an ideal amount of everything included. Many diets have concentrated on having high a protein and moisture diet with low carbohydrates, but lack in having enough taurine or vitamin B. If this is the case, offering other canned foods on occasion that are better in these areas should be considered. This will also help stop the cat becoming addicted to any 1 food type. Inter-changing the various meats such as beef, chicken and fish will also benefit by offering varying amounts of vitamins, minerals and oils.
Buy quality, not quantity. Most cheap cat foods are cheap for a reason. Avoid buying canned foods that say 'meat', 'by-products', 'bone meal' or 'animal digest'. Chemical preservatives such as 'BHA', 'BHT', 'ethoxyquin' and 'propyl gallate' have been seriously questioned as being detrimental to the health of cats, and should also be avoided. Canned foods are a must for adding much needed calcium into the diet, which is essential for building healthy bones and teeth.
High energy food has been designed for cats with high energy levels. This food will not benefit a cat which sits around all day, in fact in will make the situation worse. High energy foods will not make a less active cat become energetic.
There is a common misconception that canned food is bad for your cat's teeth, and dry food is good. Unfortunately neither statement is completely true. Neither food types are actually good for the health of teeth. Dry food is hard and crunchy, completely the opposite of what a cat's teeth are designed to do, which is tear away at meat. I recommend you brush and rinse your cat's teeth on a regular occasion.
There are two methods to feeding a cat. The first is to leave a bowl of food out all the time. This is obviously done with dry food and not meat. Since we recommend feeding a diet of canned or raw meat, this method is not acceptable and you should opt for the second method. This is to have a feeding regime of 2 to 4 times per day. Feeding this way allows a more controlled amount of food being eaten. You need to decide how many times per day you will feed your cat. The more often the better, but if you are an owner which is out during the day several times a week, it may be better to opt for a twice a day routine. Alternatively, cat feeding dishes which are set on a timer can be purchased and are a good option if you only go out on occasions.
The total amount of canned food your cat should is listed below. It is important to divide this total amount of food up equally among all of its feeds. The chart below is appropriate to cats that are getting their appropriate amount of calorie intake per day, which is approximately 25 calories per pound in weight. This chart is for healthy adult cats weighing approximately 8-10lbs. Not overweight or obese cats.
Type / Age of Cat Weight of Canned Food
2 - 10 Years 200g
Geriatric (10 Years +) 160g
Neutered or Spayed 160g
Inactive or Indoor 160g
Treats
Treats are given to cats for different reasons depending on the owner. Surveys have shown that overweight humans are more likely to have overweight pets. They show that overweight people are unable to control their own weight properly due to lack of will power. They have the same lack of will power when their pets are 'begging' for treats.
Treats are often given because it is a way of making the pet feel more welcome. If the owner is out of the house all day, they often make up for it by giving treats. This is the easy way of doing things and totally unhealthy. Rather, making up for it by spending just 5 quality minutes with the pet is far more rewarding. You may decide to simply brush the cat, or you could play with it by throwing a small toy mouse or ball around. Either way, the cat will enjoy being with you more than it will eating a treat, and exercise will aid its health.
Some owners offer treats because they think the cat doesn't eat enough dinner. The treats are designed and flavoured to be 'irresistible' to the cat, and they will eat it whether they are hungry or not. Treats should not be offered for this reason. Providing your cat looks healthy and is the appropriate weight, it will be feeding just fine. If your cat is a poor feeder, they should be tempted by other feeding methods, not with treats.
Higher Risk Cats
Neutered or Spayed
I would like to point out before anything, that the act of neutering or spaying your cat will not make it overweight. Rather, it is how you care for it afterwards that will affect its weight.
A neutered cat loses its desire to 'roam' like an 'intact' cat would do. They are not as inquisitive and generally get less exercise than intact cats. Because of this, their metabolism is slower than normal by around 20-25%. With a slower metabolism, comes a lower need for calories. A neutered or spayed cat should intake approximately 20% less calories.
Breed
Some breeds of cat are naturally slimmer than other breeds; such as the Siamese and Ornamental Short Hair. These breeds are far better at maintaining a good body condition than larger breeds. Pedigree cats are also generally fitter than non-pedigree individuals.
Age
Cats are most likely to become overweight from about 2 to 12 years of age. Younger cats have a much higher metabolism and are more energetic than older individuals. Older cats often eat far less, and it is more common for geriatric cats to become skinnier rather than heavier.
Indoor Cats
Indoor cats have many factors weighing them down. To start with, the most obvious factor is being indoors all the time. There is little stimulation inside, and they will not get the exercise that an outdoor cat will be able to. Many static toys that are offered to indoor cats become boring. They will soon lose interest in scratching posts and similar toys. Repetitive electronic toys can also become predictable and boring. The most enjoyable form of playing for the cat is to interact with the owner. Waving string around or rolling a small ball around will keep the cat amused for far longer.
Being inside all the time also means more contact with the owner is likely. This usually means more treats are given.
The temperature is an important factor too. An outdoor cat will use more energy and have a higher metabolism simply to maintain its body temperature. Cats living in centrally heated houses don't have to use much energy to get their body temperature controlled.
Social Environment
This is an area where you just can't win. There are advantages and disadvantages of having one cat or having multiple cats.
Only cats do not have the same competition for food that a multi-cat household may have. Therefore they may not be as eager to eat as much food and as quickly as a cat in competition with other cats will do. However, only cats are more likely to become bored and have less stimulation around them compared to a cat living with others. Cats have been known to take on habits like humans, such as eating when bored like an only cat may do. They may also eat more when they are stressed, like a cat living in a multi-cat household may do.
A household with more humans is far more likely to inflict extra weight onto a cat. It means more people offering treats, and more people to feed the cat dinner. It is common for many households to become confused as to whether or not the cat has been fed, and if in doubt they will feed it again.
Disabilities
This applies to humans and pets alike. Humans with physical disabilities are less likely to play and exercise their pets. The situation becomes worse if the cat is an indoor cat.
Disabled cats are often 'over-protected' by their owners. Most are automatically turned into indoor cats if they get a disability, and become an excuse for more treats to be offered. Most cats can still exercise and have their mind stimulated with various disabilities. In fact many cats with disabilities will deteriorate quicker if they are not exercised and the mind stimulated properly.
Neighbours
Do you have cat friendly neighbours? Do you know if your cat has gone into other people's houses before? It is common for other cat lovers to feed a cat that has wondered into their house.
If you think this happens, place a tag onto the cat which is clearly visible and ask politely not to feed the cat. Some people will ignore this, thinking it will not do any harm. To get around this, state that you cat has 'Special Dietary Needs'. They are more likely to pay attention when they think feeding them the wrong food could potentially harm them.
By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_M_Jones
05 June 2009
Cats and Their Allure: What, When, Where and Why
Domesticated cats have been gaining in popularity in the United States. It is projected that by the year 2010 there will be far more cats than dogs. Noted for their independence, cats can also be loving and loyal to their owners. They adjust well to indoor living, take great care in grooming themselves, and are easily trained to use a cat box. Cats, when they’re not asleep, are observers. They stare into corners and spend hours sitting in windowsills. They don’t bark, they don’t whine; they purr. Occasionally, they scold.
Cats are also predatory, and some are very good mousers. In a flourishing society of condominiums and high-rise apartment buildings, many landlords ban dogs and accept cats. One building manager puts it like this: “As long as the cat doesn’t wander through the halls and annoy others, I don’t see any problem.”
Cats, more than any other mammal, exhibit similar attributes and actions, no matter if they are wild or tame. Lions, tigers, leopards, wild cats, panthers, and house cats look similar and act very much alike--they are all predatory, nocturnal, fastidious, and defensive, but the domesticated cat is much smaller than its wild relatives. How did the wild cat first become domesticated, and where did it happen?
Origin of Cats
Looking back to the Late Eocene epoch (43.6 to 36.6 million years ago), it has been discovered that the “cat pattern” was already well established in the evolution of modern mammals. The earliest cats were easily recognizable as the ancestors of present-day felines. Other mammals had not yet evolved into a recognizable form. Typical cats (subfamily Felinae) appeared about 10 million years ago and have changed very little since that time.
The Anatomy of the Cat
Why is it that cats are able to curl up on the narrowest ledges, squeeze under the smallest spaces, or disappear at will when they sense an intrusion. The anatomy of the cat gives it great elasticity. It has a flexible spine and uses its tail and inner ear to maintain balance. Because of its inner-ear balance, it almost always lands on its feet when it falls and can jump from and to great heights without injury. For this reason, the cat is said to have nine lives.
The Historical Background of Cats
The history of the cat lends itself to drama, controversy, heroism, and mysticism on a somewhat uneven road from its domestication around 1500 B.C. to the present. From the moment the dog became domesticated, humans accepted it as a loyal and loving servant of man. The cat, however, has not been so blessed. It has been an icon of worship in ancient Egypt, a rat-catching hero during the plague years in Europe, and labeled a familiar for witches in Puritan America.
While dogs have been trained to assist humans as hunters, guides, companions, and enforcers, cats have no obvious purpose other than their presence in one’s life. They’re simply not very trainable. Yet, the art of relaxation has been mastered by the cat, and this attribute is assimilated by its human owners. Nursing homes often have a resident cat who is there only to be petted by the residents.
The Cat in Literature and Art
The cat is not as independent as it appears. It wants to be loved and cared for, and the contradictory interaction between humans and cats has been the subject of many children’s books, novels, poems, and plays over the years. From fairy tales to Wanda Gäg’s classic "Millions of Cats" (1929) to the long-running broadway show “Cats,” based on T. S. Elliot’s "Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats" (1939), to "The Marble Cake Cat" (1977) by Marjorie and Carl Allen; from Lewis Carroll’s Cheshire Cat in "Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland" (1865) to B. Kliban’s contemporary cartoon cats, the cat has long been a fascinating subject for both children and adults.
Breeds of Cats
Many people believe that the Siamese cat originated in Ancient Egypt, but it actually is from the Far East and thought to be a domestication of the Asian wild cat. The 30 to 40 recognized distinctive breeds of cats can be grouped into two general categories: the long-haired Persian and the domestic shorthair. Most cats, however, unless they are show cats, are mixed breed.
Cats Around the World
In America, cats as pets have long been popular. In most families where there are cats as pets, there is only one, possibly two cats. They’re not pack animals and don’t adjust well to living on their own outside the home. Stray cats tend to be loners. In other countries, cats are not as pampered as they are in American homes, and are sometimes a source of food.
Marjorie Allen is a free-lance writer/editor, who has had several award-winning books published. She has taught writing and offers initial editing free. Check her website http://marjorienallen.com. Marjorie and her husband spend winters on the Baja Peninsula in Mexico and summers in the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marjorie_Allen
Cats are also predatory, and some are very good mousers. In a flourishing society of condominiums and high-rise apartment buildings, many landlords ban dogs and accept cats. One building manager puts it like this: “As long as the cat doesn’t wander through the halls and annoy others, I don’t see any problem.”
Cats, more than any other mammal, exhibit similar attributes and actions, no matter if they are wild or tame. Lions, tigers, leopards, wild cats, panthers, and house cats look similar and act very much alike--they are all predatory, nocturnal, fastidious, and defensive, but the domesticated cat is much smaller than its wild relatives. How did the wild cat first become domesticated, and where did it happen?
Origin of Cats
Looking back to the Late Eocene epoch (43.6 to 36.6 million years ago), it has been discovered that the “cat pattern” was already well established in the evolution of modern mammals. The earliest cats were easily recognizable as the ancestors of present-day felines. Other mammals had not yet evolved into a recognizable form. Typical cats (subfamily Felinae) appeared about 10 million years ago and have changed very little since that time.
The Anatomy of the Cat
Why is it that cats are able to curl up on the narrowest ledges, squeeze under the smallest spaces, or disappear at will when they sense an intrusion. The anatomy of the cat gives it great elasticity. It has a flexible spine and uses its tail and inner ear to maintain balance. Because of its inner-ear balance, it almost always lands on its feet when it falls and can jump from and to great heights without injury. For this reason, the cat is said to have nine lives.
The Historical Background of Cats
The history of the cat lends itself to drama, controversy, heroism, and mysticism on a somewhat uneven road from its domestication around 1500 B.C. to the present. From the moment the dog became domesticated, humans accepted it as a loyal and loving servant of man. The cat, however, has not been so blessed. It has been an icon of worship in ancient Egypt, a rat-catching hero during the plague years in Europe, and labeled a familiar for witches in Puritan America.
While dogs have been trained to assist humans as hunters, guides, companions, and enforcers, cats have no obvious purpose other than their presence in one’s life. They’re simply not very trainable. Yet, the art of relaxation has been mastered by the cat, and this attribute is assimilated by its human owners. Nursing homes often have a resident cat who is there only to be petted by the residents.
The Cat in Literature and Art
The cat is not as independent as it appears. It wants to be loved and cared for, and the contradictory interaction between humans and cats has been the subject of many children’s books, novels, poems, and plays over the years. From fairy tales to Wanda Gäg’s classic "Millions of Cats" (1929) to the long-running broadway show “Cats,” based on T. S. Elliot’s "Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats" (1939), to "The Marble Cake Cat" (1977) by Marjorie and Carl Allen; from Lewis Carroll’s Cheshire Cat in "Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland" (1865) to B. Kliban’s contemporary cartoon cats, the cat has long been a fascinating subject for both children and adults.
Breeds of Cats
Many people believe that the Siamese cat originated in Ancient Egypt, but it actually is from the Far East and thought to be a domestication of the Asian wild cat. The 30 to 40 recognized distinctive breeds of cats can be grouped into two general categories: the long-haired Persian and the domestic shorthair. Most cats, however, unless they are show cats, are mixed breed.
Cats Around the World
In America, cats as pets have long been popular. In most families where there are cats as pets, there is only one, possibly two cats. They’re not pack animals and don’t adjust well to living on their own outside the home. Stray cats tend to be loners. In other countries, cats are not as pampered as they are in American homes, and are sometimes a source of food.
Marjorie Allen is a free-lance writer/editor, who has had several award-winning books published. She has taught writing and offers initial editing free. Check her website http://marjorienallen.com. Marjorie and her husband spend winters on the Baja Peninsula in Mexico and summers in the Berkshire Hills of Massachusetts.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marjorie_Allen
14 March 2009
Caring For Older Cats - Arthritis
Just like us, cats can get arthritis and slow down as they get older. Arthritis seems to afflict more male cats than females and cats that are overweight. Feeding your cat a balanced diet is important for general health, as is making sure it has the opportunity to exercise. Schedule some games and play times as well as outdoor exercise.
If you notice you older cat having difficulty jumping onto your bed or chair or other favorite place, check to see if you can feel any hot spots around the joints or unusual swelling. If your cat is limping, that could also be an indicator of arthritis. Awkward gait is another sign as your cat might be trying to compensate for pain.
A trip to the vet is needed so an accurate diagnosis can be made. Your cat might be in pain without you being aware of it. And as the signs of arthritis don't normally appear until the disease has already damaged the joints, it is vitally important to keep a fairly close eye on your older cat and be aware of any changes in behavior. Any unusual behavior such as hissing or scratching while being stroked or unusual lethargy need investigation.
Arthritis is an inflammation of the joints, caused when the cartilage between the bones wears away. This allows the bones to rub against each other, causing pain from the nerves in the bones. Small pieces of bone can also chip off, causing further pain.
Your vet will undertake an examination of your cat, take blood for analysis and probably have an x-ray taken to assess any damage to the joints. The sooner an accurate diagnosis can be made, the earlier you can start on treatment and help alleviate any pain your cat may be in as well as help prevent further damage. Your vet will prescribe medication and pain relief suitable for your cat. Remember, your cat can't tell you when it is in more pain than normal, you have to be aware and take measures to help it. Make sure there are no side effects to the treatment, or if there are, how to treat them.
Try to keep your cat warm. Cold or wet weather aggravates the symptoms of arthritis. A small electrical heating pad left on low and placed under the bed will help ease the symptoms. A hot water bottle will do the same. Make sure your cat gets enough exercise by playing with it as much as is possible. Make sure your cat's diet is suitable for its age and condition.
While not curable, arthritis can be managed in older cats. Some extra help from you will be necessary. Make sure your cat can still easily get into the litter box, and perhaps place a few more around the house as your cat slows down. Place your cat in its favorite place such as the bed or couch and give it some extra love and care. Arthritis is not fun for anyone.
Kathy is the author of numerous articles on cat problems and the care of cats. Visit her website at http://www.CatProblemsResolved.com today to find answers to problems you might be having with your cat or kitten.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathy_Robinson
If you notice you older cat having difficulty jumping onto your bed or chair or other favorite place, check to see if you can feel any hot spots around the joints or unusual swelling. If your cat is limping, that could also be an indicator of arthritis. Awkward gait is another sign as your cat might be trying to compensate for pain.
A trip to the vet is needed so an accurate diagnosis can be made. Your cat might be in pain without you being aware of it. And as the signs of arthritis don't normally appear until the disease has already damaged the joints, it is vitally important to keep a fairly close eye on your older cat and be aware of any changes in behavior. Any unusual behavior such as hissing or scratching while being stroked or unusual lethargy need investigation.
Arthritis is an inflammation of the joints, caused when the cartilage between the bones wears away. This allows the bones to rub against each other, causing pain from the nerves in the bones. Small pieces of bone can also chip off, causing further pain.
Your vet will undertake an examination of your cat, take blood for analysis and probably have an x-ray taken to assess any damage to the joints. The sooner an accurate diagnosis can be made, the earlier you can start on treatment and help alleviate any pain your cat may be in as well as help prevent further damage. Your vet will prescribe medication and pain relief suitable for your cat. Remember, your cat can't tell you when it is in more pain than normal, you have to be aware and take measures to help it. Make sure there are no side effects to the treatment, or if there are, how to treat them.
Try to keep your cat warm. Cold or wet weather aggravates the symptoms of arthritis. A small electrical heating pad left on low and placed under the bed will help ease the symptoms. A hot water bottle will do the same. Make sure your cat gets enough exercise by playing with it as much as is possible. Make sure your cat's diet is suitable for its age and condition.
While not curable, arthritis can be managed in older cats. Some extra help from you will be necessary. Make sure your cat can still easily get into the litter box, and perhaps place a few more around the house as your cat slows down. Place your cat in its favorite place such as the bed or couch and give it some extra love and care. Arthritis is not fun for anyone.
Kathy is the author of numerous articles on cat problems and the care of cats. Visit her website at http://www.CatProblemsResolved.com today to find answers to problems you might be having with your cat or kitten.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kathy_Robinson
Pilling a Cat
Pilling a cat can be a “nightmarish” experience. Cats don’t want something pushed down their throats, and they’ll fight with all their might to prevent it. In fact, it’s amazing how powerful their small bodies can be. Here are some ways to make the pilling process easier and less stressful – for both you and your cat.
The easiest way of pilling a cat is to crush the pill into a powder by using mortor & pestle or by putting the pill between two spoons. Then mix the powder with a small amount of wet food (preferably a preservative free, healthy wet food). If your cat usually eats dry food, she will probably view the wet food as a treat and eat it up.
If the medication is a capsule, just pull the capsule apart, sprinkle the contents on the wet food, & mix, & serve.
If your cat won’t eat the wet food that contains the pill or if she is too ill to eat, you can get a “pill gun”, also called a “pet piller”, from your veterinarian. This is a plastic rod with little rubber cups on the end that hold the pill until a plunger is pressed. It’s best to get a long gun with a soft tip.
Your vet can show you how to use the pill gun, but here are some basic instructions. Getting your cat’s mouth open is going to be the most difficult part. First, be sure the pill is in a handy place. You can put your cat on a bookshelf with her bottom in a corner or you can put her on your lap firmly braced. Have your cat facing to the right if you’re right handed, & vice versa. With your left hand, grip your cat at the cheekbones, putting your palm at the top of her head. Keeping your finger off the trigger, with your right hand, insert the pill gun until the pill is positioned over the tongue & open throat. Then pull the trigger & withdraw the gun quickly. Be sure to give your cat a treat directly after giving the pill.
If you don’t feel comfortable using a pill gun, you can try giving the pill by hand. Extend your cat’s head backwards just far enough so that her nose is pointing towards the ceiling. At this point, most cats will slightly open their mouths. With the little finger or ring finger of the hand holding the pill, open the bottom jaw a little more. You may need to hold her top jaw with your other hand while doing this. Aim straight and lightly throw the pill or drop it so that it hits beyond the hump in her tongue. (Be sure to drop or lightly throw the pill rather than shoving it down so that your cat is not as likely to gag and so that you lessen your chance of getting bitten.) Most cats will then instinctively swallow the pill.
In case none of these “pilling” strategies work, as a last resort try to find a compounding pharmacy, and have them make flavored liquid or gel out of the medication.
Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets. To receive FREE "Pet Pointers" Newsletter, go to: http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com deecaruso@cox.net Ph: 760/758-7963, 877/877-0665
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Deena_Caruso
The easiest way of pilling a cat is to crush the pill into a powder by using mortor & pestle or by putting the pill between two spoons. Then mix the powder with a small amount of wet food (preferably a preservative free, healthy wet food). If your cat usually eats dry food, she will probably view the wet food as a treat and eat it up.
If the medication is a capsule, just pull the capsule apart, sprinkle the contents on the wet food, & mix, & serve.
If your cat won’t eat the wet food that contains the pill or if she is too ill to eat, you can get a “pill gun”, also called a “pet piller”, from your veterinarian. This is a plastic rod with little rubber cups on the end that hold the pill until a plunger is pressed. It’s best to get a long gun with a soft tip.
Your vet can show you how to use the pill gun, but here are some basic instructions. Getting your cat’s mouth open is going to be the most difficult part. First, be sure the pill is in a handy place. You can put your cat on a bookshelf with her bottom in a corner or you can put her on your lap firmly braced. Have your cat facing to the right if you’re right handed, & vice versa. With your left hand, grip your cat at the cheekbones, putting your palm at the top of her head. Keeping your finger off the trigger, with your right hand, insert the pill gun until the pill is positioned over the tongue & open throat. Then pull the trigger & withdraw the gun quickly. Be sure to give your cat a treat directly after giving the pill.
If you don’t feel comfortable using a pill gun, you can try giving the pill by hand. Extend your cat’s head backwards just far enough so that her nose is pointing towards the ceiling. At this point, most cats will slightly open their mouths. With the little finger or ring finger of the hand holding the pill, open the bottom jaw a little more. You may need to hold her top jaw with your other hand while doing this. Aim straight and lightly throw the pill or drop it so that it hits beyond the hump in her tongue. (Be sure to drop or lightly throw the pill rather than shoving it down so that your cat is not as likely to gag and so that you lessen your chance of getting bitten.) Most cats will then instinctively swallow the pill.
In case none of these “pilling” strategies work, as a last resort try to find a compounding pharmacy, and have them make flavored liquid or gel out of the medication.
Deena Caruso, author, teacher, & distributor of natural pet products Helps pet owners create healthy, happy pets. To receive FREE "Pet Pointers" Newsletter, go to: http://www.healthyfoodforpets.com deecaruso@cox.net Ph: 760/758-7963, 877/877-0665
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Deena_Caruso
01 February 2009
Hyam the Cat Who Talked Too Much By Pamela Douglas
Cats have a reputation for being curious as well as mischievous. They always manage to get into some kind of trouble caused by their curiosity or tendency to want to play with things. You will see that the author captured all of these things when you read her poems.
This book is the story of Hyam, a cat who is an actor. The poems tell about Hyam's experiences during his theater life and as a family pet. Through the poems in this book, Hyam tells his side of the story. The book includes poems on many different subjects.
It is difficult to choose from the poems because they are all so good but some of my favorites are: The Dressing Room where Hyam discovered a juicy pork chop and stated "it was better by far than a mouse I had trapped." Rescue - Hyam climbed up a tree but did not have the courage to go back down and the firemen had to be called in to help. The Rattle-Monster when Hyam could not believe his eyes when he saw a Tram. Love Story when Hyam's owner got married and he wondered what would happen because up until this time he was the only man in the house.
This book of poems is well suited for readers of any age - from the very young to the very old. Everyone will love these poems but even more so if you are a cat lover. When Hyam describes the various incidents in this book, any cat owner will know what he is referring to because they have seen these things happen many times with their own cat.
Several of the poems will make the reader laugh out loud. The author includes several delightful illustrations that coincide with the poems. The poems contain very descriptive language that help the reader visualize exactly what the author is talking about. The amazing part of the illustrations is that the author, Pamela Douglas, drew them herself. The author does an excellent job of expressing her creativity through these poems.
After reading this book of poems, I now look at my cat in a different way. I often wonder, "What is he thinking about me - his owner?" This book of poems is a very delightful and entertaining read. It is just what one needs after a long stressful day! This book is also an excellent way to introduce your children to poetry.
Nancy Eaton - Owner of:
http://www.bestsellersworld.com
This site has book reviews, book giveaways and a book discussion forum.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nancy_Eaton
A Cool Cat Book - Book Review on the Beauty of Cats
Ever wonder what cats are thinking, why they keep schedules, or sleep all day? Yes, indeed, no one can deny that sleep is a wonderful thing, who can deny it. Indeed, in my next life I am coming back as house cat in a really nice family. I will expect gourmet food and a comfy couch to nap on and some cool play toys! Most cats seem to take these things for granted, but really they are happy to have a nice home, that's why they purr so much. Would you like to learn more about cats? Well, let me recommend a very good book to you then;
"The Beauty of Cats" by Howard Loxton - 1972.
The book starts with a couple of great pages of Cat Poetry, then gets into things in the first chapter discussing the issues with the big cats, like lions, tigers, cheetahs and wild other ferocious cats like Mountain Lions, bob cats and such. Much different than house cat species as the author shows through pictorials and explanation of some of the most popular cats that people own as house cats or show cats.
Learn about the history of sacred cats, cat art and the mystery of cats. The book also gets into the types of food cats in the wild eat and the types of cat food they love, and the unfortunate parasites and diseases that they attract and how and when it's time to see a vet. This is a wonderful coffee table book about cats that is great for young or old, cat lovers or cat owners. I highly recommend this book, if you love cats.
"Lance Winslow" - Online Blog Content Service. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; http://www.WorldThinkTank.net/. Lance Winslow's Bio
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lance_Winslow
18 November 2008
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15 November 2008
Big Cats
Lets first establish what big cats are - i mean how are they differentiated from small cats... There is actually some argument on this issue in certain circles!
Generally speaking big cats are 1) Wild and 2) Considerably bigger than the small domestic or wild cats (a Siberian tiger for instance may be up to 100 times heavier than our 8 pound domestic feline). Other commonly used classifying method is the ability to roar. Big cats have an elongated larynx and elastic hyoid bone that enables them to roar (and prevents them from purring). Small cats are the opposite. Their hyoid bone is ossified, thus they are unable to roar, and may only purr.
Other interesting difference is the shape of pupils. All big cats have round pupils and small cats, apart from lynx, have slit-like pupils (exaggerated in bright light). Also big cats usually consume their meals lying down, apart from snow leopard, whereas cats - as we all know- eat in a sitting position! Many of the earlier classifications used to include only four species: Tiger, Lion, Jaguar and Leopard into big cats. However, today big cats are expanded to include also Cougar, Snow Leopard, Clouded Leopard and Cheetah.
Despite significant differences in size in all the big and small cats, all felines are remarkably similar in their basic body make-up and sensory perceptions. They have similar attributes and hunting and behavior profiles in most cases. They are in short a true representation of Nature's masterwork in creation. With grace and elegance, big cats are master predators and hunters!
The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on Big Cats
Learn more about cats by visiting: http://www.ofcats.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Omer_Ashraf
22 September 2008
What is a Cat Whisperer?
Similar to a horse or dog whisperer, a Cat Whisperer is a person who relates particularly well with cats. A Cat Whisperer has unusual luck and success with cats. Often people bring cats or a single cat will just "show up" at their home. This cat will adopt the whisperer.
For myself, I've had Persians and black cats mostly, show up and move in. Sometimes, the cat's people moved and abandoned the cat. Other times, the cat just decided it liked it better at my house.
Some say that a Cat Whisperer is a cat therapist, but in truth, most Cat Whisperers are good cat behaviorist. Most Cat Whisperers have never had any formal training, and come by it naturally. They understand a cat's way of thinking and work with its existing behaviors to achieve the desired results.
Some cats that have been abused will only respond to a Cat Whisperer. Other people may try to help the cat and only see a scared cat with a long memory of abuse and hurt. These cats often tragically end up in kill shelters. It is tragic because the cats have already endured so much. Many of these poor cats were once loved and coddled pets. They were abandoned, mistreated by children or cruel adults, terrorized by dogs and possibly even tortured.
When a cat is this badly damaged emotionally and physically, it takes great patience and care to bring the poor cat back to some semblance of normalcy around people.
Morgen Marshall, a cat lover and trainer, invites you into her world of cats. She created a website dedicated to making the relationship between cats and people harmonious and healthy, For the Love of Cats. It is a place for people facing difficulties in their relationships with cats to come and find the answers they need from someone they can trust.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Morgen_Marshall
13 September 2008
How to Adopt a Cat
When you and your family reach that decision of adopting a pet and adding to your family it can be a wonderful experience. Making sure that every thing is in order before adopting will help to make this a great experience. When you do adopt take the whole family with you so that everyone can share this experience.
One of the first things you need to ask yourself is can we afford a Cat? There is just not food involved the cat needs to have regular checkups and vaccinations. What if your cat becomes really sick? Can you afford the $1,000 plus that it might take to save the life of your cat. This could include surgery, hospitalization, and any medicines needed. Your cat will also need a litter box with cat litter every month, and safe cat toys.
Vaccinations are very important they can prevent any unwanted diseases, viruses, conditions, and infections. If your cat is happy and healthy you will be happy too. If your cat does end up becoming ill it is always a wise idea to have money saved away in case of emergency. But what happens if your cat becomes sick twice in a row, or maybe another one of your Pets become ill? Pet Insurance is something to look into. There are many different plan options available to choose from. If you do not want Pet Insurance there is something called Care Credit which is basically a credit card for all of your Veterinarian needs.
To find out more about healthy cats including symptoms, tips, and resources visit Cat Health Guide.
I am a Stay at Home Mom, earning a living by working from home. I have been documenting my progress of how much I have made through various web-sites, and you can view it here.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kelly_Fleming
Understanding Your Cat - Cat Body Language
We like to think of our cats as our fur-children, even though they really can't speak to us. Or can they? Cats may not be able to talk to us but they can communicate through body language. Did you know that if your cat wags her tail it's not a sign of happiness - she's actually annoyed? Here's a few more body language clues to help us discover what our cats are really trying to tell us...
Calm & Content:
Cats who are in a calm and happy state of mind hold their ears alert and pricked. Their tails are still, held either straight up, or relaxed. If your cat is really relaxed, she'll gaze at you with half-lidded eyes. If she flutters her eyes at you, it means she trusts you and feels safe. Another way to tell if your cat is happy is if she kneads her paws.
If your cat lies down on her side or back and exposes her belly, she's letting you know that she's happy, and wouldn't mind if you came over to give her some love. Often this means she's inviting you to rub her tummy. But be careful - not all cats like belly rubs. The ones that don't will soon let you know by grabbing your hands and giving a quick bite.
Pleased to See You:
When your cat is happy to see you, she'll greet you with her tail held straight up. She'll rub her face against you, using the scent glands in her forehead, chin and whiskers to 'mark you' as part of her territory. She might also purr, but surprisingly, purring isn't always a sign that your cat is content.
Why do cats purr, anyway?
Kittens are able to purr by the time they're two days old. It's their way of communicating with their moms. As cats grow older, they continue to purr to indicate happiness. But did you know that cats also purr when they're sick or anxious? Some animal experts believe it's a form of self-soothing, like when a person hums to stave off nerves. Cats also purr to show submission to another cat, or to indicate friendliness.
Hunting, Curious & Playful:
When your cat's in stalking or hunting mode, she'll drop her body low to the ground. She'll keep her tail down, while the tip twitches. Just before she's about to pounce, she might wag her butt.
If your cat is mildly curious about something, she'll hold her tail at half mast and slowly switch it from side to side. An upright tail curved to one side or held in a 'question mark' means your kitty's excited, and might be ready to play.
Wants Something:
You'll know when your cat wants something from you - whether it's food, affection or clean litter - when she leans into your legs with her whole body. Some cats will even do a little hop as they rub your legs. This is kitty language for, "Hey, you up there! We need something down here!"
Annoyed:
It's easy to tell when a cat starts to get annoyed. When your cat's fed up or had enough petting, she'll flick the end of her tail back and forth. When she's really annoyed, she'll lash her tail back and forth. If she thumps her tail, watch out! She's really upset. Growling and swiping at you with her paws also are a result of extreme kitty annoyance.
Fear & Aggression:
When your cat is afraid, she tries to make herself look smaller. She tucks her tail close to her body and hunkers down into a ball before backing away. She'll lay her ears back sideways and her pupils will be dilated.
If she's afraid but on the defensive, she'll bare her teeth and expose her paws as she confronts the threat in a sideways stance.
Aggressive cats look like "Halloween cats." They try to look as scary and intimidating as possible by arching their backs and puffing up the fur along their hackles and tails. This is known as piloerection. Your cat will also pull her whiskers back, with her paw raised and ready to swat, while her tensely-curved-tail will lash from side to side.
Hissing is an obvious sign of a fearful or aggressive cat. If she's ready to bite, she'll show her teeth, and give low warning growls.
Although these behaviors should generally help you decipher what your cat is thinking, every cat is an individual with their own personal nuances and body language. Taking the time to figure out what your cat is really trying to say will deepen your bond with one another.
K.L. Bonfiglio is a freelance writer and owner of CuteCatGifts.com, a website dedicated to connecting cat lovers with cute cat gifts Looking for more information about cats? Visit our blog, which features informative cat articles, product spotlights, cat videos, funny cat photos and more.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=K._L._Bonfiglio
Cat History and Cat Classification of Domestic Cats
Scientists classify living organisms into different kingdoms, family, and orders to study more about them. Although, most people do not get into such details, but certain individuals who love cats, will definitely want to know the scientific classification of cats.
However, before that here is little history about classifications. In nineteenth century, there was this huge craze to classify the organisms scientifically. During that era, researchers identified numerous species and subspecies. They named the organisms by their own name or by the name of traveler, who bought them from different regions. Accordingly, cats were no exception and researchers classified them too.
Below is a detailed description of the scientific classification of the cats. To start with, the domestic cat in the household is commonly referred as Felis Catus.
How Researchers Classified Cats:
Life science expert Carouse Linnaes gave the name Felis Catus to the domestic cat in the year 1758. The domestic cats are in fact distant relatives of the wild cats. Therefore, domestic cats are the subspecies of feral cats. Thus, according to the guidelines of the ICZN (International Commission on Zoological Nomenclature), wild cats are referred as F silvestris and F silvestris catus for the domestic species.
Cats are mammals and represent the vertebrate groups. Furthermore, since cats are meat eaters they are placed under carnivores order. The easy and scientific tabulation of the cat classification is as follows:
Common name: cat, feline, kitty cat, domestic cat, and pussycat
Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Mammalia
Order: Carnivora
Suborder: Feliformia
Family: Felidae
Subfamily: Felinate/Pantherinae
Species: Felis catus
Cats such as domestic cats, Pumas, cheetahs, lynx, ocelot, and others come into Subfamily Felinae whereas large cats such as leopards, jaguars, lions, and tigers come in subfamily Pantherinae.
Long before the scientists assigned scientific classification for cats, ancient travelers and cat lovers had already classified them into subspecies. It usually depended on the notion that the particular cat type was representative of the main phenotype of cat in the area.
This method was same as that of Victorian love of gathering and classifying the organisms and then claiming them in certain order. For instance, the present day Felis Catus anura is referred as the Manx, catus Siamensis as Siamese, F catus cartusenesis as the Chartreux, and F catus angorensis as Turkish Angora.
About Species:
Species are nothing but taxonomic assembling of animals, which are similar but are readily distinguishable from one another. Although, they appear similar they never crossbreed naturally.
For instance, tigers and cats are of same species but they are very different in terms of behavior as well as in type, so there is a need to classify them more into subspecies or races. Mammals of a particular subspecies vary morphologically from distinctive mammals.
The domestic cat is actually the offspring of the original African Wildcat. The subspecies of an African wildcat is F s lybica. The domestic cats take the place below F s lybica and become felis catus. All breeds of felis catus interbreed naturally.
Go to Cat and Kitten Zone to get your free ebook about Cats and Kittens at CatsCat Supplies and a Cat and Kitten Forum where you can connect with others who love cats and kittens. You can Find Cat and Kitten Zone at http://www.catandkittenzone.com Cat and Kitten Zone also has information on Kittens,
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Martin_Marks
04 September 2008
Asian Semi-Longhair Cat
Asian Semi-longhair is a beautiful cat breed. It is said to have originated in Britain during the 1980's. The cat also goes by the name of Tiffanie. Both names are used in different regions across the world. The origin of this pretty feline dates back to experimental breeding of the long-haired Burmilla cats with Chinchillas. The result of this breeding was this semi-longhaired attractive cat whose silky bur did not tangle and whose personality was an ideal combination of play and affection. Thereafter the cat was selectively developed and gained recognition of Governing Council of the Cat Fancy of United Kingdom, though it is still not recognized in the United States. Efforts are underway though to generate formal recognition of this cat in the United States.
Tiffanies are very pretty cats. They are seen in various colors and patterns. The five main colors are blue, black, brown, chocolate and lilac. Fur of Asian Semi-longhairs is shiny, luxurious and silky in texture. Eyes are in beautiful shades of green and are often lined, along with the lips, adding to the cat's beauty.
The adorable Asian Semi-longhairs are a combination of their parent breeds when it comes to personality and behavior. They have the playfulness of the Burmese as well as the easy going nature from their Persian ancestry. Some are laid back and content to grooming themselves in an indoor environment, while other cats of the same breed are often outgoing and demanding. They are intelligent and loving felines above all.
Apart from their good looks, the Asian Semi-longhair cats are easy to groom and train. They are fast learners and make excellent pets. They are understanding and quite content to living in apartments with people. As a result, these pretty felines are ideal companions for a variety of adoring cat owners.
The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on Asian Semi-longhair cat
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Omer_Ashraf
Asian Semi-Longhair Cat
Asian Semi-longhair is a beautiful cat breed. It is said to have originated in Britain during the 1980's. The cat also goes by the name of Tiffanie. Both names are used in different regions across the world. The origin of this pretty feline dates back to experimental breeding of the long-haired Burmilla cats with Chinchillas. The result of this breeding was this semi-longhaired attractive cat whose silky bur did not tangle and whose personality was an ideal combination of play and affection. Thereafter the cat was selectively developed and gained recognition of Governing Council of the Cat Fancy of United Kingdom, though it is still not recognized in the United States. Efforts are underway though to generate formal recognition of this cat in the United States.
Tiffanies are very pretty cats. They are seen in various colors and patterns. The five main colors are blue, black, brown, chocolate and lilac. Fur of Asian Semi-longhairs is shiny, luxurious and silky in texture. Eyes are in beautiful shades of green and are often lined, along with the lips, adding to the cat's beauty.
The adorable Asian Semi-longhairs are a combination of their parent breeds when it comes to personality and behavior. They have the playfulness of the Burmese as well as the easy going nature from their Persian ancestry. Some are laid back and content to grooming themselves in an indoor environment, while other cats of the same breed are often outgoing and demanding. They are intelligent and loving felines above all.
Apart from their good looks, the Asian Semi-longhair cats are easy to groom and train. They are fast learners and make excellent pets. They are understanding and quite content to living in apartments with people. As a result, these pretty felines are ideal companions for a variety of adoring cat owners.
The author is a blogger about cats and an expert on Asian Semi-longhair cat
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Omer_Ashraf
How To Stop Cat Fights When Introducing A New Cat To Your Home
Bringing home a new cat to provide your kitty with some companionship and a playmate may seem to be a very good idea, but it can be fraught with difficulties. The older (or original cat) may be very resentful of this new interloper, invading his territory and will defend it. The result can be vicious cat fights, which, if one of the cats is younger, smaller or more vulnerable can end up in a trip to the vets or worse! However, it doesn't have to be like this. By taking a few precautionary steps, you can keep hostilities to a minimum. It is only natural that there may be some initial hissing and growling, but you don't want any resentment to progress further than that. The key to success lies in the slow introduction of the new cat. Give them time to get to know one another by using the following steps:
- Rub the cats down with the same towel to transfer their scents to each other.
- Make the cats smell similar by rubbing powder into their fur.
- Put the new cat in a bathroom or bedroom for a few days away from the older cat. Feed the older cat by the door of the new kitty's room so that the two cats can smell each other and virtually eat side by side but with a door separating them!
- Take some time to put the older cat into the new cat's room and allow the new arrival out to explore the rest of its new home in safety. This gives her a chance to find a hiding place if she wants and to learn the smell of the older cat. The older cat meanwhile will be becoming accustomed to the new cat's smell, too. Then return the animals to their original places, leaving the door slightly open for a few hours so the cats can see each other. Repeat this process over the next few days.
This gentle, slow introduction should help prevent a face to face cat fight. There may still be romps and occasional acts of aggression but by introducing them to each other slowly, they should learn to tolerate each other and cohabit peacefully.
For more tips on preventing cat fights, visit Tricia's website All About Cat Care at http://www.all-about-cat-care.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tricia_Craggs
How to Get Rid of Cat Urine Odors
Cat urine has earned a reputation for being one of the most formidable of all pet odors. It not only smells horrible, but has a very persistent odor that must be removed entirely. Leaving any trace of it is an invitation for your kitty to re-mark the same area over and over again. Most commercially available pet-odor removers are expensive and also unnecessary unless you're dealing with an aged urine stain or a fragile fabric.
You will need:
Rubber Gloves
Towels
Scrub Brush
A Bowl
Warm Water
Dish Detergent
White Vinegar
Baking Soda
Removing Cat Urine from Carpet
Caution: Test this method on an inconspicuous area first to make sure it doesn't cause damage or discoloration.
1. Remove as much of the urine as possible by blotting the stain with a dry towel, re-wetting it with warm water, and repeating. A shampooer, wetvac, or steamer can make this step much easier.
2. Once you've removed as much urine as you are willing (or able) to, re-saturate the area with a 50/50 water/white vinegar solution and allow it to air dry (use a fan if you're in a rush).
3. Completely cover the area with baking soda - use lots!
4. Fill a container with enough water to saturate the stained area and add a drop of regular dish detergent. Pour the solution on top of the baking soda.
5. Using either your hands, towels, or a scrub brush, work the baking soda, water and detergent paste into the carpet - work it in good and deep, then allow it to air dry.
6. Once the area has dried completely and the baking soda has returned to powder form, vacuum it up. If the vacuum isn't cutting it, it can be blotted up using water and towels.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 as needed to remove any remaining odor.
Removing Cat Urine from Upholstery
Caution: Test this method on an inconspicuous area first to make sure it doesn't cause damage or discoloration.
1. Remove as much of the urine as possible by flushing the article/area with clean water and then removing as much of it as possible with either towels of a wet-vac
2. Once you've removed as much urine as you are willing (or able) to, re-saturate the area with a 50/50 water/white vinegar solution and allow it to air dry (use a fan if you're in a rush).
3. Cover the area liberally with baking soda - use lots!
4. Fill a container with enough water to saturate the stained area and add a drop of regular dish detergent. Pour the solution on top of the baking soda.
5. Using either your hands, towels, or a scrub brush, work the baking soda/water/detergent paste into the fabric - work it in good and deep, then allow it to air dry.
6. Once the area has dried completely and the baking soda has returned to powder form, vacuum it up. If the vacuum isn't cutting it, it can be blotted up using water and towels.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 as needed to remove any remaining odor.
Commercial Cat Urine Removers
If the steps outlined above just weren't enough to kill the odor, the next logical step is either to try an odor-removal product, or call in a professional cleaner to contend with the problem. There are TONS of pet odor cleaners currently on the market, and they tend to be expensive so it's a good idea to do some pre-purchase research. Also make sure you check the bottom of this page for tips submitted by other users.
How to Select a Cat Urine Remover
Epinions is a good place to start your search for a product that fits your needs. Different cleaners tend to work better in different situations so search for success stories with circumstances that match your own (Old stains, kittens, fabric types, etc). Once you've found a few that look good, perform some searches using the product name.
Want to know more? You can read more tips on How to get rid of Cat Urine Odor, plus information to get rid of practically anything else that ails you - from bad breath to telemarketers to cellulite - at http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Janice_Mccain
You will need:
Rubber Gloves
Towels
Scrub Brush
A Bowl
Warm Water
Dish Detergent
White Vinegar
Baking Soda
Removing Cat Urine from Carpet
Caution: Test this method on an inconspicuous area first to make sure it doesn't cause damage or discoloration.
1. Remove as much of the urine as possible by blotting the stain with a dry towel, re-wetting it with warm water, and repeating. A shampooer, wetvac, or steamer can make this step much easier.
2. Once you've removed as much urine as you are willing (or able) to, re-saturate the area with a 50/50 water/white vinegar solution and allow it to air dry (use a fan if you're in a rush).
3. Completely cover the area with baking soda - use lots!
4. Fill a container with enough water to saturate the stained area and add a drop of regular dish detergent. Pour the solution on top of the baking soda.
5. Using either your hands, towels, or a scrub brush, work the baking soda, water and detergent paste into the carpet - work it in good and deep, then allow it to air dry.
6. Once the area has dried completely and the baking soda has returned to powder form, vacuum it up. If the vacuum isn't cutting it, it can be blotted up using water and towels.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 as needed to remove any remaining odor.
Removing Cat Urine from Upholstery
Caution: Test this method on an inconspicuous area first to make sure it doesn't cause damage or discoloration.
1. Remove as much of the urine as possible by flushing the article/area with clean water and then removing as much of it as possible with either towels of a wet-vac
2. Once you've removed as much urine as you are willing (or able) to, re-saturate the area with a 50/50 water/white vinegar solution and allow it to air dry (use a fan if you're in a rush).
3. Cover the area liberally with baking soda - use lots!
4. Fill a container with enough water to saturate the stained area and add a drop of regular dish detergent. Pour the solution on top of the baking soda.
5. Using either your hands, towels, or a scrub brush, work the baking soda/water/detergent paste into the fabric - work it in good and deep, then allow it to air dry.
6. Once the area has dried completely and the baking soda has returned to powder form, vacuum it up. If the vacuum isn't cutting it, it can be blotted up using water and towels.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 as needed to remove any remaining odor.
Commercial Cat Urine Removers
If the steps outlined above just weren't enough to kill the odor, the next logical step is either to try an odor-removal product, or call in a professional cleaner to contend with the problem. There are TONS of pet odor cleaners currently on the market, and they tend to be expensive so it's a good idea to do some pre-purchase research. Also make sure you check the bottom of this page for tips submitted by other users.
How to Select a Cat Urine Remover
Epinions is a good place to start your search for a product that fits your needs. Different cleaners tend to work better in different situations so search for success stories with circumstances that match your own (Old stains, kittens, fabric types, etc). Once you've found a few that look good, perform some searches using the product name.
Want to know more? You can read more tips on How to get rid of Cat Urine Odor, plus information to get rid of practically anything else that ails you - from bad breath to telemarketers to cellulite - at http://www.howtogetridofstuff.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Janice_Mccain
03 September 2008
The Joy of Domestic Cats
So why do you want to own a cat or even in some cases be owned by a cat?
If you are going to care for your cat properly it will mean you will have to find time to feed and groom it, change litter and let it in and out of your home. You will need to arrange for its care whilst you are away and you will have to find money for food, litter and veterinary expenses.
Cats are wonderful pets and companions and having one in your home can be a joy for you and all your family. Choose your cat wisely and prepare for an addition to your family.
Domestic cat owners often remain cat owners and often would be unable to see their lives complete without at least one feline living within their home.
To devoted owners caring for their cat will be no chore or a series of tedious everyday tasks instead it will be time lovingly given to an affectionate living animal. The affection that can be given by your cat rubbed up against your leg can make keeping and looking after your cat a special part of your life.
Caring for your cat does not demand exercise and since the domestic cat is basically a small creature their living areas pose not too much of a consideration but having said that your house should be big enough to allow the cat room to dwell.
Although cheap to acquire and cheap to own in monetary terms a cat can be worth its weight in gold to a new owner, providing amusement, love and companionship.
The elderly will find owning a cat very beneficial as it will provide undemanding companionship and can be very easily cared for. Children will learn a lot by having a cat as a pet to care for and will appreciate the amusement and affection that a cat can give. Under parent's guidance, a child can quickly learn to become a responsible pet owner.
Once you have decided that a cat will add to your enjoyment of life and that you can properly devote time and affection to its upkeep and well being you can begin to study the many and varied possibilities the world of a cat has to offer.
For more extensive advice and information on owning your own domestic cat including choosing your cat, tips on training the cat, grooming, feeding and nutrition visit http://propercareforcats.googlepages.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=George_Potter
If you are going to care for your cat properly it will mean you will have to find time to feed and groom it, change litter and let it in and out of your home. You will need to arrange for its care whilst you are away and you will have to find money for food, litter and veterinary expenses.
Cats are wonderful pets and companions and having one in your home can be a joy for you and all your family. Choose your cat wisely and prepare for an addition to your family.
Domestic cat owners often remain cat owners and often would be unable to see their lives complete without at least one feline living within their home.
To devoted owners caring for their cat will be no chore or a series of tedious everyday tasks instead it will be time lovingly given to an affectionate living animal. The affection that can be given by your cat rubbed up against your leg can make keeping and looking after your cat a special part of your life.
Caring for your cat does not demand exercise and since the domestic cat is basically a small creature their living areas pose not too much of a consideration but having said that your house should be big enough to allow the cat room to dwell.
Although cheap to acquire and cheap to own in monetary terms a cat can be worth its weight in gold to a new owner, providing amusement, love and companionship.
The elderly will find owning a cat very beneficial as it will provide undemanding companionship and can be very easily cared for. Children will learn a lot by having a cat as a pet to care for and will appreciate the amusement and affection that a cat can give. Under parent's guidance, a child can quickly learn to become a responsible pet owner.
Once you have decided that a cat will add to your enjoyment of life and that you can properly devote time and affection to its upkeep and well being you can begin to study the many and varied possibilities the world of a cat has to offer.
For more extensive advice and information on owning your own domestic cat including choosing your cat, tips on training the cat, grooming, feeding and nutrition visit http://propercareforcats.googlepages.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=George_Potter
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