Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from "I want food" to "will you play with me?" to "hello there". Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.
Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.
Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.
Cat Sense of Smell and Communication
A cat's sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.
Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.
Cat Talk and Hierarchy
Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.
Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don't live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer's status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.
Cat Communication and Territory
Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat's territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.
With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!
What is Cat Secret Talk?
Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from "I want food" to "will you play with me?" to "hello there". Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.
Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.
Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.
Cat Sense of Smell and Communication
A cat's sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.
Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.
Cat Talk and Hierarchy
Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.
Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don't live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer's status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.
Cat Communication and Territory
Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat's territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.
With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!
Thomas Kellerman has been training cats for many years. To find out more about cat secret talk and how they communicate, just visit: http://www.ourcatsecrets.com/cat-chat-how-cats-communicate.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Thomas_Kellerman
Kingdom of pets
26 February 2010
There Are No Bad Cats! (Behavior Problems and How to Solve Them)
Believe it or not, there are no bad cats. Cats are just unique. They live in a cat world and do what cats do, no matter what you try to say or do to convince them to adjust to your world. The most important thing for you as a cat parent is to understand why your cat does what it does. Cats do not go to obedience school. If they had their way, you as a pet parent would go to obedience school to learn how to deal with your pet.
A cat is not a dog; a cat does not act like a dog, think like a dog or behave like a dog. If you want a pet that behaves as a dog, get a dog not a cat. That said, let's get to the point of understanding cat behavior. Punishing a cat for wrong behavior is like trying to empty the ocean one-cup at a time. Try as you may, you will never empty the ocean or get your cat to understand why you are punishing him/her.
Punishment will never cure bad behavior; it will only make your cat frightened and leery of you. Cats are smart enough to know that once punished for a misdeed they will not do it again, in front of you. They will wait until your back is turned or you are out the door. Though you may believe your cat understands what you are saying, or rather yelling about, it will pay you no heed except to run away, ignore you or wait to do it again later.
A perfect example is our male cat Smokey, he dislikes our female cat Tiger and every chance he gets he will chase her. However, if he starts out to chase her and then sees me he stops, looks at me and then will turn away as if he was just out taking a walk. He knows I will say "No" quite loudly and scold him. Of course, it doesn't do any good to scold him, but it makes me feel better.
There are several good reasons why your cat does what it does to annoy you. First of all, cats really don't have a good grasp of the English language; they are not furry little people. However, they do understand positive and negative responses to their actions. Cats love praise, pets and treats and this is our secret weapon. Screaming, yelling, spanking or throwing (heaven forbid) will only traumatize your cat and make it fearful of you.
Stop for a moment and think about the life your cat is leading (okay, you wish you could lead that life) take into consideration its day. You are at work all day and may get home late and tired. Your fur ball has been sleeping all day and wants to play.
You want to sit, eat and watch TV. You give your cat a few pets and while you are doing that he/she gives you a little nip on your hand. You react by jumping up and possibly yelling and chasing him/her. Hey, this is fun your cat got your attention and you are "playing." We humans sometimes reward our cats for their bad behavior by giving them the attention they want.
In our house I am the perfect example of what not to do. Our Smokey is a night eater. Why? Cause he sleeps all day while I am at work. He started at a young age to come into our bedroom and nudge me with his head when he wanted to be fed, even though I would feed him before I went to sleep. Knowing what he wanted I would get up and feed him. This would happen several times a night and I would get up (truthfully this has been going on for years.)
However, since I started doing research for this book I suddenly came to realize that this is silly, the cat is not starving and I do not have to get up at all hours. I gradually started to push him away (nicely) whenever he nudged me and quietly said "No" as a result he moved over to the nightstand where he likes to sleep and laid down. It has been several weeks and he will once in a while nudge me and I say "no" and he goes away and waits until he sees me stir. Most cats when they are doing "wrong behavior" are really doing exactly what a cat should be doing.
Cats need to scratch and stretch their claws. It is a natural thing to do and it feels good. It is up to you as the pet parent to provide scratching material, whether it is the couch or a scratching post, it is immaterial to the cat. Cats learn by experience, if they do something and it turns out to be a good experience in their eyes, they will do it again, a bad experience may eliminate, the behavior or they just might try it again to see if something good happens.
One important thing to remember, if your cat suddenly starts doing things that he/she never attempted before and the behavior is not to your liking, observe the current situation in your household. Have there been sudden and unusual changes in the household routine, new furniture, new people or a new pet? Has there been a change in your cat's bathroom routine; is kitty eating, do you notice any changes in your cat's grooming habits?
It does not take much to disturb the serenity of a cat's world as cats like routine and changes can cause reactions, which are not always to their liking. Also, consider medical problems, your cat may not feeling well and this too can cause behavioral problems. Since cats cannot talk they may misbehave in order to show their concern or displeasure to the changes that have occurred.
Here are a few thoughts to keep in mind while you are trying to reform kitty.
First of all stop all reprimands and punishment-- they seldom do any good anyway. Make life with your cat fun and rewarding. Create an environment for yourself and your cat that satisfies you both. Remember a cat does not read minds and has little knowledge of English.
Help your cat understand what you want it to do by making the "yes" experiences rewarding and finding ways to eliminate most of the "no" experiences. We are going to list below some typical behavioral problems and possible solutions. It is important should you have any questions about your cat's behavior that you consult your vet to discuss it.
Aggressive behavior: Can be caused by fear, being disturbed when napping, injury or sickness, or being in a bad mood.
Solution: Should the cat nip or scratch you while petting, say NO and stop petting. Do not play rough with your cat as it does not know nice from not nice. Were you petting or scratching in
a sensitive area of the cat's body? If your cat hisses or its ears are flattened back, leave the cat alone. Check for injury.
Begging: Can be caused by the cat being hungry or just wanting attention.
Solution: Feed the cat just before your sit down to eat or if the begging is for attention take a minute or two to pet and talk to your cat a little quality attention will go a long ways.
Constant meowing: Females that are not spayed will meow constantly while looking for a "fellow." Or your cat may need some quality time with you, remember just a few minute of undivided attention will do wonders. Another thought is your cat may be ill or hurt.
Solution: Spay or neuter your cat (really should anyway), give your cat some quality time, cats need to know that they are loved, or your cat maybe sick or hurt, especially if the crying occurs when kitty is trying to go to the bathroom. If so, take a quick trip to the vet or call for advice.
Jumping on the counters and/or furniture: Cats love high places and cats are generally nosey, exploring is part of a cat's nature.
Solution: When it comes to the counters, stove and the dining table in our house, a consistent NO and placing the cat on the floor worked fine. It took several tries at this, but it worked. Another solution is put double sticky tape on the counter for a day or two, the cat will walk on it and get stuck, not a good experience and will stop, as it is no fun. Also keep food and other attractive smells off the counter or table. Things that make noise and may fall off the counter also work, as it will scare the cat. Cats do not like to be scared.
If your cat is getting on the furniture and you do not want that, provide a comfortable nesting place high up if possible. There are window seats that you can fasten to a window sill. We have a small bed on top of a section of our entertainment center where our female can escape.
If you have a particular piece of furniture you do not want the cat on, put foil, plastic or some inexpensive netting that you can buy at a fabric store over it when you are not at home. Cats do not like the feel of that and will stay off it and soon will ignore it. There are also things called "scat mats" which can be purchased on the Internet or at major pet stores.
Fighting with other cats: Cats are inclined to protect their habitat, they might be looking to mate, and some cats just want to show who is boss.
Solution: First of all spay or neuter your cat as they make much better pets and are less inclined to fight. Never break up a cat fight with your hands. Use a hose to spray them, throw a towel on them or make a loud noise to scare them. If your resident cats are having a dispute, separate them by putting them in separate rooms for a while. Usually they will simmer down and become tolerant of each other again.
In our household a sharp "No" works for a while with our male and female. Be certain to give each one plenty of affection, out of sight of each other. Some cats are like people and they just don't like each other no matter what you try to do.
In our household our female is wise enough to stay out of Smokey's reach. Smokey doesn't want to fight with her, he just wants to chase her.
Spraying: A cat operates on smell and spraying is a natural way to mark its territory. Also a cat will spray if it feels threatened, stressed or anxious.
Solution: Spay or neuter your pet to decrease the need to be overly territorial. Give your pet a lot of pets and attention, as it may feel stressed and/or unloved.
Provide a safe haven preferably high up (off the ground) if you pet feels threatened by another household pet.
If your cat is spraying near or on a window your pet may be marking its territory because of an outside cat. Keep curtains or drapes closed.
Do not punish your cat for spraying as it may increase his/her anxiety. Using a citrus-based cleaner will remove the scent and keep kitty hopefully from doing it again. We have found that the male cats usually do spraying, we have not seen our females do it, though they might. Interestingly, when our one male cat sprayed there was no odor after we had him neutered. However, the spraying left an oily substance that had to be cleaned up. There is a spray you can buy that has a calming effect on cats and has helped in stopping the spraying it is called "Feliway" and it can be purchased at major pet stores and on the Internet.
Scratching and tearing furniture: Scratching is a natural instinct of a cat. Boredom or a lack of a scratching post can cause the problem.
Solution: Scratching is part of a cat's life it provides exercise, an opportunity to stretch, relieves stress and allows them to shed their claws. If your cat is a house cat and does not have the opportunity to find a tree or post to scratch, it is up to you the pet parent to provide one. Cats are not overly particular about what they scratch as long as it fulfills its criteria.
Couches and stereo speakers fit the bill nicely. Providing a good scratching post (actually several are better) is a great alternative to your couch. You can make your own with a little effort or buy one at your favorite pet store. A good scratching post should be at least 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall, be sturdy enough so it won't fall over and scare the cat and be covered with either hemp rope or the reverse side of some leftover carpet.
Do not use the right side of the carpet for a post; use the backside as it provides the proper grabbing material. Actually you can make a post that lies on the floor, as long as it is long enough for the cat to stretch out on. There are some inexpensive ones made of cardboard that have a catnip scent that cats enjoy.
When teaching your cat to use the post it is a good idea to rub some catnip on it to attract the kitty. Whenever you see your cat using its post, praise the cat and give it a small treat, this conditions the cat into thinking this is a great thing to do. If you cat is scratching the furniture punishing will not help the matter. Remember that a cat knows better than to do something it has been reprimanded for in front of you.
If kitty is still going back to his/her old tricks the solution is to make the article of choice unacceptable. Cover it with a piece of plastic, foil, double-sided sticky tape or netting you can buy at a fabric store when you are not home. Continue to show kitty the scratching post, give praise and treats for using it, persistence pays on your part and soon kitty will leave your stuff alone.
Some people resort to having their pets declawed. We have a chapter on Declawing in this book. We do not recommend doing that, as there are other alternatives such as clipping your cat's nails or using the nail covers that are sold in pet stores and glue on the claws.
There are also spray repellents sold in pet stores to use on furniture that make the furniture unattractive to your cat. Scat mats are also available at major pet stores and on the Internet, they give a "static" type shock to the pet that climbs on it (it is not harmful, just annoying.) We have covered what we feel are the most common bad habits of cats in this chapter.
Cats really do not have any bad habits; the things they do are the things that, as one of nature's critters are natural to them. Climbing, hunting, spraying, biting, fighting, and clawing are all things the natural cat does. We have brought this magnificent creature in from the wild, domesticated it and demanded that it live by our rules. "We'll see," says the kitty as it settles down for a nap.
If this article has been of benefit, you might enjoy reading my book "So! You Want to Get a Cat" available on Amozon.com and please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Audrey_Frederick
A cat is not a dog; a cat does not act like a dog, think like a dog or behave like a dog. If you want a pet that behaves as a dog, get a dog not a cat. That said, let's get to the point of understanding cat behavior. Punishing a cat for wrong behavior is like trying to empty the ocean one-cup at a time. Try as you may, you will never empty the ocean or get your cat to understand why you are punishing him/her.
Punishment will never cure bad behavior; it will only make your cat frightened and leery of you. Cats are smart enough to know that once punished for a misdeed they will not do it again, in front of you. They will wait until your back is turned or you are out the door. Though you may believe your cat understands what you are saying, or rather yelling about, it will pay you no heed except to run away, ignore you or wait to do it again later.
A perfect example is our male cat Smokey, he dislikes our female cat Tiger and every chance he gets he will chase her. However, if he starts out to chase her and then sees me he stops, looks at me and then will turn away as if he was just out taking a walk. He knows I will say "No" quite loudly and scold him. Of course, it doesn't do any good to scold him, but it makes me feel better.
There are several good reasons why your cat does what it does to annoy you. First of all, cats really don't have a good grasp of the English language; they are not furry little people. However, they do understand positive and negative responses to their actions. Cats love praise, pets and treats and this is our secret weapon. Screaming, yelling, spanking or throwing (heaven forbid) will only traumatize your cat and make it fearful of you.
Stop for a moment and think about the life your cat is leading (okay, you wish you could lead that life) take into consideration its day. You are at work all day and may get home late and tired. Your fur ball has been sleeping all day and wants to play.
You want to sit, eat and watch TV. You give your cat a few pets and while you are doing that he/she gives you a little nip on your hand. You react by jumping up and possibly yelling and chasing him/her. Hey, this is fun your cat got your attention and you are "playing." We humans sometimes reward our cats for their bad behavior by giving them the attention they want.
In our house I am the perfect example of what not to do. Our Smokey is a night eater. Why? Cause he sleeps all day while I am at work. He started at a young age to come into our bedroom and nudge me with his head when he wanted to be fed, even though I would feed him before I went to sleep. Knowing what he wanted I would get up and feed him. This would happen several times a night and I would get up (truthfully this has been going on for years.)
However, since I started doing research for this book I suddenly came to realize that this is silly, the cat is not starving and I do not have to get up at all hours. I gradually started to push him away (nicely) whenever he nudged me and quietly said "No" as a result he moved over to the nightstand where he likes to sleep and laid down. It has been several weeks and he will once in a while nudge me and I say "no" and he goes away and waits until he sees me stir. Most cats when they are doing "wrong behavior" are really doing exactly what a cat should be doing.
Cats need to scratch and stretch their claws. It is a natural thing to do and it feels good. It is up to you as the pet parent to provide scratching material, whether it is the couch or a scratching post, it is immaterial to the cat. Cats learn by experience, if they do something and it turns out to be a good experience in their eyes, they will do it again, a bad experience may eliminate, the behavior or they just might try it again to see if something good happens.
One important thing to remember, if your cat suddenly starts doing things that he/she never attempted before and the behavior is not to your liking, observe the current situation in your household. Have there been sudden and unusual changes in the household routine, new furniture, new people or a new pet? Has there been a change in your cat's bathroom routine; is kitty eating, do you notice any changes in your cat's grooming habits?
It does not take much to disturb the serenity of a cat's world as cats like routine and changes can cause reactions, which are not always to their liking. Also, consider medical problems, your cat may not feeling well and this too can cause behavioral problems. Since cats cannot talk they may misbehave in order to show their concern or displeasure to the changes that have occurred.
Here are a few thoughts to keep in mind while you are trying to reform kitty.
First of all stop all reprimands and punishment-- they seldom do any good anyway. Make life with your cat fun and rewarding. Create an environment for yourself and your cat that satisfies you both. Remember a cat does not read minds and has little knowledge of English.
Help your cat understand what you want it to do by making the "yes" experiences rewarding and finding ways to eliminate most of the "no" experiences. We are going to list below some typical behavioral problems and possible solutions. It is important should you have any questions about your cat's behavior that you consult your vet to discuss it.
Aggressive behavior: Can be caused by fear, being disturbed when napping, injury or sickness, or being in a bad mood.
Solution: Should the cat nip or scratch you while petting, say NO and stop petting. Do not play rough with your cat as it does not know nice from not nice. Were you petting or scratching in
a sensitive area of the cat's body? If your cat hisses or its ears are flattened back, leave the cat alone. Check for injury.
Begging: Can be caused by the cat being hungry or just wanting attention.
Solution: Feed the cat just before your sit down to eat or if the begging is for attention take a minute or two to pet and talk to your cat a little quality attention will go a long ways.
Constant meowing: Females that are not spayed will meow constantly while looking for a "fellow." Or your cat may need some quality time with you, remember just a few minute of undivided attention will do wonders. Another thought is your cat may be ill or hurt.
Solution: Spay or neuter your cat (really should anyway), give your cat some quality time, cats need to know that they are loved, or your cat maybe sick or hurt, especially if the crying occurs when kitty is trying to go to the bathroom. If so, take a quick trip to the vet or call for advice.
Jumping on the counters and/or furniture: Cats love high places and cats are generally nosey, exploring is part of a cat's nature.
Solution: When it comes to the counters, stove and the dining table in our house, a consistent NO and placing the cat on the floor worked fine. It took several tries at this, but it worked. Another solution is put double sticky tape on the counter for a day or two, the cat will walk on it and get stuck, not a good experience and will stop, as it is no fun. Also keep food and other attractive smells off the counter or table. Things that make noise and may fall off the counter also work, as it will scare the cat. Cats do not like to be scared.
If your cat is getting on the furniture and you do not want that, provide a comfortable nesting place high up if possible. There are window seats that you can fasten to a window sill. We have a small bed on top of a section of our entertainment center where our female can escape.
If you have a particular piece of furniture you do not want the cat on, put foil, plastic or some inexpensive netting that you can buy at a fabric store over it when you are not at home. Cats do not like the feel of that and will stay off it and soon will ignore it. There are also things called "scat mats" which can be purchased on the Internet or at major pet stores.
Fighting with other cats: Cats are inclined to protect their habitat, they might be looking to mate, and some cats just want to show who is boss.
Solution: First of all spay or neuter your cat as they make much better pets and are less inclined to fight. Never break up a cat fight with your hands. Use a hose to spray them, throw a towel on them or make a loud noise to scare them. If your resident cats are having a dispute, separate them by putting them in separate rooms for a while. Usually they will simmer down and become tolerant of each other again.
In our household a sharp "No" works for a while with our male and female. Be certain to give each one plenty of affection, out of sight of each other. Some cats are like people and they just don't like each other no matter what you try to do.
In our household our female is wise enough to stay out of Smokey's reach. Smokey doesn't want to fight with her, he just wants to chase her.
Spraying: A cat operates on smell and spraying is a natural way to mark its territory. Also a cat will spray if it feels threatened, stressed or anxious.
Solution: Spay or neuter your pet to decrease the need to be overly territorial. Give your pet a lot of pets and attention, as it may feel stressed and/or unloved.
Provide a safe haven preferably high up (off the ground) if you pet feels threatened by another household pet.
If your cat is spraying near or on a window your pet may be marking its territory because of an outside cat. Keep curtains or drapes closed.
Do not punish your cat for spraying as it may increase his/her anxiety. Using a citrus-based cleaner will remove the scent and keep kitty hopefully from doing it again. We have found that the male cats usually do spraying, we have not seen our females do it, though they might. Interestingly, when our one male cat sprayed there was no odor after we had him neutered. However, the spraying left an oily substance that had to be cleaned up. There is a spray you can buy that has a calming effect on cats and has helped in stopping the spraying it is called "Feliway" and it can be purchased at major pet stores and on the Internet.
Scratching and tearing furniture: Scratching is a natural instinct of a cat. Boredom or a lack of a scratching post can cause the problem.
Solution: Scratching is part of a cat's life it provides exercise, an opportunity to stretch, relieves stress and allows them to shed their claws. If your cat is a house cat and does not have the opportunity to find a tree or post to scratch, it is up to you the pet parent to provide one. Cats are not overly particular about what they scratch as long as it fulfills its criteria.
Couches and stereo speakers fit the bill nicely. Providing a good scratching post (actually several are better) is a great alternative to your couch. You can make your own with a little effort or buy one at your favorite pet store. A good scratching post should be at least 2 1/2 to 3 feet tall, be sturdy enough so it won't fall over and scare the cat and be covered with either hemp rope or the reverse side of some leftover carpet.
Do not use the right side of the carpet for a post; use the backside as it provides the proper grabbing material. Actually you can make a post that lies on the floor, as long as it is long enough for the cat to stretch out on. There are some inexpensive ones made of cardboard that have a catnip scent that cats enjoy.
When teaching your cat to use the post it is a good idea to rub some catnip on it to attract the kitty. Whenever you see your cat using its post, praise the cat and give it a small treat, this conditions the cat into thinking this is a great thing to do. If you cat is scratching the furniture punishing will not help the matter. Remember that a cat knows better than to do something it has been reprimanded for in front of you.
If kitty is still going back to his/her old tricks the solution is to make the article of choice unacceptable. Cover it with a piece of plastic, foil, double-sided sticky tape or netting you can buy at a fabric store when you are not home. Continue to show kitty the scratching post, give praise and treats for using it, persistence pays on your part and soon kitty will leave your stuff alone.
Some people resort to having their pets declawed. We have a chapter on Declawing in this book. We do not recommend doing that, as there are other alternatives such as clipping your cat's nails or using the nail covers that are sold in pet stores and glue on the claws.
There are also spray repellents sold in pet stores to use on furniture that make the furniture unattractive to your cat. Scat mats are also available at major pet stores and on the Internet, they give a "static" type shock to the pet that climbs on it (it is not harmful, just annoying.) We have covered what we feel are the most common bad habits of cats in this chapter.
Cats really do not have any bad habits; the things they do are the things that, as one of nature's critters are natural to them. Climbing, hunting, spraying, biting, fighting, and clawing are all things the natural cat does. We have brought this magnificent creature in from the wild, domesticated it and demanded that it live by our rules. "We'll see," says the kitty as it settles down for a nap.
If this article has been of benefit, you might enjoy reading my book "So! You Want to Get a Cat" available on Amozon.com and please visit my web site and blog at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Audrey_Frederick
24 February 2010
Why Cats Flip For Catnip
If you've ever watched as a cat "flipped" over fresh catnip perhaps you've been struck with the question; "what causes Catnip to affect cats that way?" Catnip is indeed an unusual phenomenon among cats, it has the ability to alter your cat's behavior like nothing else can. So what exactly is the reason for what scientists have coined as "the Catnip effect"?
Unfortunately for such inquisitive minds the exact reason of why Catnip affects cats
in such a manner remains mostly a mystery. There is however much that we do
know about Catnip and cats even if we don't have the ultimate answer of exactly
"why?" yet answered.
The Science Stuff
Catnip is scientifically classified as Nepeta cataria and is a perennial herb from
the
mint family and is in fact also referred to as "Catmint". It is a plant indigenous to
Europe but has been exported and is now found all over including the United States
and Canada.
The active ingredient in Catnip is an oil; Nepetalactone, which is found in the leaves
of the plant. This is the reason you are able to find Catnip in a bottle or spray form
in some pet stores.
Other Uses For Catnip
Catnip is not only good to stimulate activity in cats, it can also be used by
humans
as an herb for a medicinal tea which may soothe toothaches, help against coughs,
and may also perform as a sleep aid. Furthermore, Catnip can be used as an herb
on salads or other foods as has been the case for centuries in France. Lately Catnip
has also been garnering favor as a natural insect repellant rivaling the effectiveness
of many store bought varieties of repellant.
Catnip and Kitty
Catnip affects approximately half of all cats. What determines whether or not
a cat
will react to Catnip is a genome that is inherited (or not inherited as the case may
be) at birth. Kittens, regardless of whether or not they carry this genome, do not
react to Catnip until reaching about 3 or 4 months of age and becoming sexually
mature. Older cats are also more likely to have a diminished or non-existing
reaction to Catnip, which leads scientists to believe that the Catnip effect is based at
least partially on sexuality and that the reaction may be something like an
aphrodisiac. Further adding to this belief is the similarity of a sexual pheromone
found in the urine of the male cat to nepetalactone (the active product in Catnip).
Cats that can be traced to regions where Catnip is not indigenous appear to be
unaffected by Catnip. The domesticated housecat is not the only cat that may be
affected by Catnip. Larger cats can also be affected by the Catnip effect, felines
such as the bobcat, lynx, tiger and even lion are known to react much the same way
the common housecat would. It is interesting to note that while Catnip can act as a
stimulant when a cat sniffs it, it can conversely act as a relaxant if ingested.
Therefore, you may see a different, nearly opposite result depending on whether
your cat chooses to eat the Catnip you provide for him/her or merely sniffs it (the
latter being the more typical behavior).
How to Use Catnip With Your Cat
Catnip can prove to be a very useful tool for a few common problems with
your cat.
If you are lucky enough to have a cat that does react favorably to Catnip then here
are a couple of ideas for you and your furry little friend.
Catnip and Lazy Cats:
Catnip can be used to get a lazy cat off his or her butt. Some cats are
notoriously
lazy, choosing to sleep much of their day away in a nice golden patch of sunlight on
the living room carpet, only waking up to eat and gather some necessary attention
from their indulgent owners. If this sounds like your cat, you may soon see (if you
haven't already) that your cat is becoming more and more round. This is generally
not a good thing. Catnip may be able to help. Presenting catnip to your cat
encourages activity (of course provided the cat sniffs rather than eats the herb).
Many adult cats will respond to Catnip in a manner that resembles their childlike
kitten hyperactivity, jumping, playing and running around as if it was given an
injection of kitty adrenaline, which in essence, is the case. The effect of Catnip on a
cat can last somewhere between two and fifteen minutes. If the latter is the case,
then this is a decent amount of exercise and will help keep your cat a little more
svelte than without a Catnip treatment. Furthermore, if you leave the Catnip out for
a few hours then your cat may return to the herb later (an hour or two after the
effect has worn off) and again react in an energetic fashion. So in this sense you
may consider Catnip sort of like a kitty energy drink.
Catnip and Cats That Scratch Furniture:
If you have a cat that seems bent on the destruction of your furniture then
Catnip
may again be able to come to the rescue. Cats can be frustratingly picky about just
about anything under the sun including where they want to sharpen their furniture
destroying claws. It is not uncommon for a cat to damage or destroy a piece of
furniture just because the owners finally gave up on trying to redirect their cat to
the unused cat scratching post that set them back anywhere up to a hundred dollars
and more. A good way to attempt to change this frustrating and expensive behavior
is to rub some Catnip or Catnip oil on a scratching post that you are attempting to
get the cat to use. Introduce your cat to the newly "Catnipped" scratching post and
see how he/she reacts. If all goes well, your cat will sniff and inspect the post and
then begin clawing at it. After a few times (you may have to re-Catnip the post)
hopefully kitty will be trained to use the post rather than the sofa.
Using Catnip with Multiple Cats
If you've never used Catnip before and you have more than one cat it is
advisable to
try it out individually on each cat before introducing it to all of your cats at the same
time. The reason is because Catnip affects some cats in a negative manner causing
the cat in question to become aggressive rather than merely playful. Introducing it
to your cats individually enables you to control the situation and keep a cat that may
react aggressively isolated from your other cats. This of course means avoiding a
possible catfight that could result in broken furniture, hurt kitties (possibly
requiring a vet visit), annoyed neighbors (and probably owners), or a combination of
all of the above.
Growing and Keeping Catnip
Growing your own Catnip can be rewarding as it can save you money, give you
the
satisfaction of doing something yourself and ensuring that you always get fresh,
high-quality Catnip for your cat. A word of caution however; the exact kitty
reaction you want to grow your own Catnip is something to be wary of. If you plan
on growing your Catnip out of doors and other cats can access your Catnip garden
then be prepared for unwelcome feline visitors. This may not be a problem for you
personally, but cats are by nature territorial and if you have a cat that lives alone
without the company of other cats this could prove to be an area of stress for your
cat. Even if you keep your cat inside at all times, your cat may get agitated if he/she
looks out the window to see another cat frolicking in territory your cat considers his
or her own. If you choose to grow your Catnip indoors, be careful to keep it out of
reach of kitty. Otherwise you'll likely have Fluffy jumping up on furniture even to
the most out of the way place to get access to the tempting herb. Cats are great
jumpers and not really known for respecting precious household knick-knacks. So
if you do decide to grow it indoors for a cat that reacts to Catnip, be careful to grow
it in a place that your cat won't be able to access it. A room that you always keep
closed to the cat is probably the best solution for indoor grown Catnip.
If you do find that your cat reacts positively to Catnip you should be sure to use it
sparingly so as not to dull the effect which can be the result of overexposure. A
good rule of thumb is to not treat your kitty more than once a week on average to
Catnip.
Given all the positive effects that Catnip may have on your cat you owe it to yourself
(and naturally your fluffy little ball of affection) to see how he/she reacts to this
strange and well known herb. It will provide enjoyment and exercise for your cat
and most likely an entertaining show for yourself as well. It's a win win situation.
Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Markison
Unfortunately for such inquisitive minds the exact reason of why Catnip affects cats
in such a manner remains mostly a mystery. There is however much that we do
know about Catnip and cats even if we don't have the ultimate answer of exactly
"why?" yet answered.
The Science Stuff
Catnip is scientifically classified as Nepeta cataria and is a perennial herb from
the
mint family and is in fact also referred to as "Catmint". It is a plant indigenous to
Europe but has been exported and is now found all over including the United States
and Canada.
The active ingredient in Catnip is an oil; Nepetalactone, which is found in the leaves
of the plant. This is the reason you are able to find Catnip in a bottle or spray form
in some pet stores.
Other Uses For Catnip
Catnip is not only good to stimulate activity in cats, it can also be used by
humans
as an herb for a medicinal tea which may soothe toothaches, help against coughs,
and may also perform as a sleep aid. Furthermore, Catnip can be used as an herb
on salads or other foods as has been the case for centuries in France. Lately Catnip
has also been garnering favor as a natural insect repellant rivaling the effectiveness
of many store bought varieties of repellant.
Catnip and Kitty
Catnip affects approximately half of all cats. What determines whether or not
a cat
will react to Catnip is a genome that is inherited (or not inherited as the case may
be) at birth. Kittens, regardless of whether or not they carry this genome, do not
react to Catnip until reaching about 3 or 4 months of age and becoming sexually
mature. Older cats are also more likely to have a diminished or non-existing
reaction to Catnip, which leads scientists to believe that the Catnip effect is based at
least partially on sexuality and that the reaction may be something like an
aphrodisiac. Further adding to this belief is the similarity of a sexual pheromone
found in the urine of the male cat to nepetalactone (the active product in Catnip).
Cats that can be traced to regions where Catnip is not indigenous appear to be
unaffected by Catnip. The domesticated housecat is not the only cat that may be
affected by Catnip. Larger cats can also be affected by the Catnip effect, felines
such as the bobcat, lynx, tiger and even lion are known to react much the same way
the common housecat would. It is interesting to note that while Catnip can act as a
stimulant when a cat sniffs it, it can conversely act as a relaxant if ingested.
Therefore, you may see a different, nearly opposite result depending on whether
your cat chooses to eat the Catnip you provide for him/her or merely sniffs it (the
latter being the more typical behavior).
How to Use Catnip With Your Cat
Catnip can prove to be a very useful tool for a few common problems with
your cat.
If you are lucky enough to have a cat that does react favorably to Catnip then here
are a couple of ideas for you and your furry little friend.
Catnip and Lazy Cats:
Catnip can be used to get a lazy cat off his or her butt. Some cats are
notoriously
lazy, choosing to sleep much of their day away in a nice golden patch of sunlight on
the living room carpet, only waking up to eat and gather some necessary attention
from their indulgent owners. If this sounds like your cat, you may soon see (if you
haven't already) that your cat is becoming more and more round. This is generally
not a good thing. Catnip may be able to help. Presenting catnip to your cat
encourages activity (of course provided the cat sniffs rather than eats the herb).
Many adult cats will respond to Catnip in a manner that resembles their childlike
kitten hyperactivity, jumping, playing and running around as if it was given an
injection of kitty adrenaline, which in essence, is the case. The effect of Catnip on a
cat can last somewhere between two and fifteen minutes. If the latter is the case,
then this is a decent amount of exercise and will help keep your cat a little more
svelte than without a Catnip treatment. Furthermore, if you leave the Catnip out for
a few hours then your cat may return to the herb later (an hour or two after the
effect has worn off) and again react in an energetic fashion. So in this sense you
may consider Catnip sort of like a kitty energy drink.
Catnip and Cats That Scratch Furniture:
If you have a cat that seems bent on the destruction of your furniture then
Catnip
may again be able to come to the rescue. Cats can be frustratingly picky about just
about anything under the sun including where they want to sharpen their furniture
destroying claws. It is not uncommon for a cat to damage or destroy a piece of
furniture just because the owners finally gave up on trying to redirect their cat to
the unused cat scratching post that set them back anywhere up to a hundred dollars
and more. A good way to attempt to change this frustrating and expensive behavior
is to rub some Catnip or Catnip oil on a scratching post that you are attempting to
get the cat to use. Introduce your cat to the newly "Catnipped" scratching post and
see how he/she reacts. If all goes well, your cat will sniff and inspect the post and
then begin clawing at it. After a few times (you may have to re-Catnip the post)
hopefully kitty will be trained to use the post rather than the sofa.
Using Catnip with Multiple Cats
If you've never used Catnip before and you have more than one cat it is
advisable to
try it out individually on each cat before introducing it to all of your cats at the same
time. The reason is because Catnip affects some cats in a negative manner causing
the cat in question to become aggressive rather than merely playful. Introducing it
to your cats individually enables you to control the situation and keep a cat that may
react aggressively isolated from your other cats. This of course means avoiding a
possible catfight that could result in broken furniture, hurt kitties (possibly
requiring a vet visit), annoyed neighbors (and probably owners), or a combination of
all of the above.
Growing and Keeping Catnip
Growing your own Catnip can be rewarding as it can save you money, give you
the
satisfaction of doing something yourself and ensuring that you always get fresh,
high-quality Catnip for your cat. A word of caution however; the exact kitty
reaction you want to grow your own Catnip is something to be wary of. If you plan
on growing your Catnip out of doors and other cats can access your Catnip garden
then be prepared for unwelcome feline visitors. This may not be a problem for you
personally, but cats are by nature territorial and if you have a cat that lives alone
without the company of other cats this could prove to be an area of stress for your
cat. Even if you keep your cat inside at all times, your cat may get agitated if he/she
looks out the window to see another cat frolicking in territory your cat considers his
or her own. If you choose to grow your Catnip indoors, be careful to keep it out of
reach of kitty. Otherwise you'll likely have Fluffy jumping up on furniture even to
the most out of the way place to get access to the tempting herb. Cats are great
jumpers and not really known for respecting precious household knick-knacks. So
if you do decide to grow it indoors for a cat that reacts to Catnip, be careful to grow
it in a place that your cat won't be able to access it. A room that you always keep
closed to the cat is probably the best solution for indoor grown Catnip.
If you do find that your cat reacts positively to Catnip you should be sure to use it
sparingly so as not to dull the effect which can be the result of overexposure. A
good rule of thumb is to not treat your kitty more than once a week on average to
Catnip.
Given all the positive effects that Catnip may have on your cat you owe it to yourself
(and naturally your fluffy little ball of affection) to see how he/she reacts to this
strange and well known herb. It will provide enjoyment and exercise for your cat
and most likely an entertaining show for yourself as well. It's a win win situation.
Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Markison
Why Is Your Cat Overweight?
Food
Dry food has been a recommended staple diet for cats by many experts for a number of years. It is an easy option to leave a bowl of dry food out constantly; something that cannot be done with tinned food. Unfortunately though, it's not a natural food source and has been developed by humans using many additives and un-natural products. Cats, like humans, will eat until they fill themselves up. However, dry food has many more calories and carbohydrates than a natural food source, which leads to the cat taking in far more than necessary just to feel full-up. Many owners assume that their cat is just greedy, but in many cases it is not the quantity of food being eaten, it is the quality.
Naturally, cats are obligate carnivores; meaning they only feed on other animals. The cats prey however, are generally herbivorous and have various vegetable and plant matter in their guts. All of which, will be consumed by the cat. Domestic cats have been shown to have longer intestines than wild cats; proving they have evolved over hundreds of years to cope with more plant and vegetable matter (carbohydrates). Still, this is no excuse to turn a carnivore into an omnivore. Rather, supplementing the diet with small amounts of carbohydrates is acceptable.
Many consumers believe that dried food is actually better for cats. The manufacturers have implemented the belief that all these additives such as corn and grains are an important part of a cat's diet, implying 'the more the better' approach. Although very small quantities of these may benefit the cat, too much will be detrimental to their health.
Kidney disease is one of, if not the biggest killer in cats. Kidney disease is usually a result of lack of water and unfortunately, cats have a very low thirst drive. Although they may drink when eating dry food, they will generally only take in half of the liquid necessary for their health. A cat's prey item consists of around 75% water, canned and raw foods have a similar amount. Dry foods on the other hand usually have a maximum of 10% water content. It is obvious therefore, that canned or raw foods are an absolute must to maintain a healthy cat.
Cats need a high level of protein in their diet which must come from animals. Plant protein differs from meat protein, and should not be substituted. When protein is calculated in canned food, the moisture content must be subtracted from 100 and the protein percentage worked out from the result. For instance, a canned food with 8% protein and 75% water means that the true protein value should be worked out like so:
Non-Moisture Content = 25% so: 8 ÷ 25 x 100 = 32
Therefore: True Protein Value = 32% which is ideal.
The amino acid 'taurine' is also an essential part of a cat's diet, and can only be found in meat products. It is recommended that a quantity of 2000mg/kg or 0.2% should be available in canned food. Other vitamins and minerals should also be included. Preservatives, colouring and added flavours are used more for the customers benefit rather than the cats. If it looks and smells nice to a human, there is a higher chance of them buying it.
There are very few foods on the market which actually have an ideal amount of everything included. Many diets have concentrated on having high a protein and moisture diet with low carbohydrates, but lack in having enough taurine or vitamin B. If this is the case, offering other canned foods on occasion that are better in these areas should be considered. This will also help stop the cat becoming addicted to any 1 food type. Inter-changing the various meats such as beef, chicken and fish will also benefit by offering varying amounts of vitamins, minerals and oils.
Buy quality, not quantity. Most cheap cat foods are cheap for a reason. Avoid buying canned foods that say 'meat', 'by-products', 'bone meal' or 'animal digest'. Chemical preservatives such as 'BHA', 'BHT', 'ethoxyquin' and 'propyl gallate' have been seriously questioned as being detrimental to the health of cats, and should also be avoided. Canned foods are a must for adding much needed calcium into the diet, which is essential for building healthy bones and teeth.
High energy food has been designed for cats with high energy levels. This food will not benefit a cat which sits around all day, in fact in will make the situation worse. High energy foods will not make a less active cat become energetic.
There is a common misconception that canned food is bad for your cat's teeth, and dry food is good. Unfortunately neither statement is completely true. Neither food types are actually good for the health of teeth. Dry food is hard and crunchy, completely the opposite of what a cat's teeth are designed to do, which is tear away at meat. I recommend you brush and rinse your cat's teeth on a regular occasion.
There are two methods to feeding a cat. The first is to leave a bowl of food out all the time. This is obviously done with dry food and not meat. Since we recommend feeding a diet of canned or raw meat, this method is not acceptable and you should opt for the second method. This is to have a feeding regime of 2 to 4 times per day. Feeding this way allows a more controlled amount of food being eaten. You need to decide how many times per day you will feed your cat. The more often the better, but if you are an owner which is out during the day several times a week, it may be better to opt for a twice a day routine. Alternatively, cat feeding dishes which are set on a timer can be purchased and are a good option if you only go out on occasions.
The total amount of canned food your cat should is listed below. It is important to divide this total amount of food up equally among all of its feeds. The chart below is appropriate to cats that are getting their appropriate amount of calorie intake per day, which is approximately 25 calories per pound in weight. This chart is for healthy adult cats weighing approximately 8-10lbs. Not overweight or obese cats.
Type / Age of Cat Weight of Canned Food
2 - 10 Years 200g
Geriatric (10 Years +) 160g
Neutered or Spayed 160g
Inactive or Indoor 160g
Treats
Treats are given to cats for different reasons depending on the owner. Surveys have shown that overweight humans are more likely to have overweight pets. They show that overweight people are unable to control their own weight properly due to lack of will power. They have the same lack of will power when their pets are 'begging' for treats.
Treats are often given because it is a way of making the pet feel more welcome. If the owner is out of the house all day, they often make up for it by giving treats. This is the easy way of doing things and totally unhealthy. Rather, making up for it by spending just 5 quality minutes with the pet is far more rewarding. You may decide to simply brush the cat, or you could play with it by throwing a small toy mouse or ball around. Either way, the cat will enjoy being with you more than it will eating a treat, and exercise will aid its health.
Some owners offer treats because they think the cat doesn't eat enough dinner. The treats are designed and flavoured to be 'irresistible' to the cat, and they will eat it whether they are hungry or not. Treats should not be offered for this reason. Providing your cat looks healthy and is the appropriate weight, it will be feeding just fine. If your cat is a poor feeder, they should be tempted by other feeding methods, not with treats.
Higher Risk Cats
Neutered or Spayed
I would like to point out before anything, that the act of neutering or spaying your cat will not make it overweight. Rather, it is how you care for it afterwards that will affect its weight.
A neutered cat loses its desire to 'roam' like an 'intact' cat would do. They are not as inquisitive and generally get less exercise than intact cats. Because of this, their metabolism is slower than normal by around 20-25%. With a slower metabolism, comes a lower need for calories. A neutered or spayed cat should intake approximately 20% less calories.
Breed
Some breeds of cat are naturally slimmer than other breeds; such as the Siamese and Ornamental Short Hair. These breeds are far better at maintaining a good body condition than larger breeds. Pedigree cats are also generally fitter than non-pedigree individuals.
Age
Cats are most likely to become overweight from about 2 to 12 years of age. Younger cats have a much higher metabolism and are more energetic than older individuals. Older cats often eat far less, and it is more common for geriatric cats to become skinnier rather than heavier.
Indoor Cats
Indoor cats have many factors weighing them down. To start with, the most obvious factor is being indoors all the time. There is little stimulation inside, and they will not get the exercise that an outdoor cat will be able to. Many static toys that are offered to indoor cats become boring. They will soon lose interest in scratching posts and similar toys. Repetitive electronic toys can also become predictable and boring. The most enjoyable form of playing for the cat is to interact with the owner. Waving string around or rolling a small ball around will keep the cat amused for far longer.
Being inside all the time also means more contact with the owner is likely. This usually means more treats are given.
The temperature is an important factor too. An outdoor cat will use more energy and have a higher metabolism simply to maintain its body temperature. Cats living in centrally heated houses don't have to use much energy to get their body temperature controlled.
Social Environment
This is an area where you just can't win. There are advantages and disadvantages of having one cat or having multiple cats.
Only cats do not have the same competition for food that a multi-cat household may have. Therefore they may not be as eager to eat as much food and as quickly as a cat in competition with other cats will do. However, only cats are more likely to become bored and have less stimulation around them compared to a cat living with others. Cats have been known to take on habits like humans, such as eating when bored like an only cat may do. They may also eat more when they are stressed, like a cat living in a multi-cat household may do.
A household with more humans is far more likely to inflict extra weight onto a cat. It means more people offering treats, and more people to feed the cat dinner. It is common for many households to become confused as to whether or not the cat has been fed, and if in doubt they will feed it again.
Disabilities
This applies to humans and pets alike. Humans with physical disabilities are less likely to play and exercise their pets. The situation becomes worse if the cat is an indoor cat.
Disabled cats are often 'over-protected' by their owners. Most are automatically turned into indoor cats if they get a disability, and become an excuse for more treats to be offered. Most cats can still exercise and have their mind stimulated with various disabilities. In fact many cats with disabilities will deteriorate quicker if they are not exercised and the mind stimulated properly.
Neighbours
Do you have cat friendly neighbours? Do you know if your cat has gone into other people's houses before? It is common for other cat lovers to feed a cat that has wondered into their house.
If you think this happens, place a tag onto the cat which is clearly visible and ask politely not to feed the cat. Some people will ignore this, thinking it will not do any harm. To get around this, state that you cat has 'Special Dietary Needs'. They are more likely to pay attention when they think feeding them the wrong food could potentially harm them.
By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_M_Jones
Dry food has been a recommended staple diet for cats by many experts for a number of years. It is an easy option to leave a bowl of dry food out constantly; something that cannot be done with tinned food. Unfortunately though, it's not a natural food source and has been developed by humans using many additives and un-natural products. Cats, like humans, will eat until they fill themselves up. However, dry food has many more calories and carbohydrates than a natural food source, which leads to the cat taking in far more than necessary just to feel full-up. Many owners assume that their cat is just greedy, but in many cases it is not the quantity of food being eaten, it is the quality.
Naturally, cats are obligate carnivores; meaning they only feed on other animals. The cats prey however, are generally herbivorous and have various vegetable and plant matter in their guts. All of which, will be consumed by the cat. Domestic cats have been shown to have longer intestines than wild cats; proving they have evolved over hundreds of years to cope with more plant and vegetable matter (carbohydrates). Still, this is no excuse to turn a carnivore into an omnivore. Rather, supplementing the diet with small amounts of carbohydrates is acceptable.
Many consumers believe that dried food is actually better for cats. The manufacturers have implemented the belief that all these additives such as corn and grains are an important part of a cat's diet, implying 'the more the better' approach. Although very small quantities of these may benefit the cat, too much will be detrimental to their health.
Kidney disease is one of, if not the biggest killer in cats. Kidney disease is usually a result of lack of water and unfortunately, cats have a very low thirst drive. Although they may drink when eating dry food, they will generally only take in half of the liquid necessary for their health. A cat's prey item consists of around 75% water, canned and raw foods have a similar amount. Dry foods on the other hand usually have a maximum of 10% water content. It is obvious therefore, that canned or raw foods are an absolute must to maintain a healthy cat.
Cats need a high level of protein in their diet which must come from animals. Plant protein differs from meat protein, and should not be substituted. When protein is calculated in canned food, the moisture content must be subtracted from 100 and the protein percentage worked out from the result. For instance, a canned food with 8% protein and 75% water means that the true protein value should be worked out like so:
Non-Moisture Content = 25% so: 8 ÷ 25 x 100 = 32
Therefore: True Protein Value = 32% which is ideal.
The amino acid 'taurine' is also an essential part of a cat's diet, and can only be found in meat products. It is recommended that a quantity of 2000mg/kg or 0.2% should be available in canned food. Other vitamins and minerals should also be included. Preservatives, colouring and added flavours are used more for the customers benefit rather than the cats. If it looks and smells nice to a human, there is a higher chance of them buying it.
There are very few foods on the market which actually have an ideal amount of everything included. Many diets have concentrated on having high a protein and moisture diet with low carbohydrates, but lack in having enough taurine or vitamin B. If this is the case, offering other canned foods on occasion that are better in these areas should be considered. This will also help stop the cat becoming addicted to any 1 food type. Inter-changing the various meats such as beef, chicken and fish will also benefit by offering varying amounts of vitamins, minerals and oils.
Buy quality, not quantity. Most cheap cat foods are cheap for a reason. Avoid buying canned foods that say 'meat', 'by-products', 'bone meal' or 'animal digest'. Chemical preservatives such as 'BHA', 'BHT', 'ethoxyquin' and 'propyl gallate' have been seriously questioned as being detrimental to the health of cats, and should also be avoided. Canned foods are a must for adding much needed calcium into the diet, which is essential for building healthy bones and teeth.
High energy food has been designed for cats with high energy levels. This food will not benefit a cat which sits around all day, in fact in will make the situation worse. High energy foods will not make a less active cat become energetic.
There is a common misconception that canned food is bad for your cat's teeth, and dry food is good. Unfortunately neither statement is completely true. Neither food types are actually good for the health of teeth. Dry food is hard and crunchy, completely the opposite of what a cat's teeth are designed to do, which is tear away at meat. I recommend you brush and rinse your cat's teeth on a regular occasion.
There are two methods to feeding a cat. The first is to leave a bowl of food out all the time. This is obviously done with dry food and not meat. Since we recommend feeding a diet of canned or raw meat, this method is not acceptable and you should opt for the second method. This is to have a feeding regime of 2 to 4 times per day. Feeding this way allows a more controlled amount of food being eaten. You need to decide how many times per day you will feed your cat. The more often the better, but if you are an owner which is out during the day several times a week, it may be better to opt for a twice a day routine. Alternatively, cat feeding dishes which are set on a timer can be purchased and are a good option if you only go out on occasions.
The total amount of canned food your cat should is listed below. It is important to divide this total amount of food up equally among all of its feeds. The chart below is appropriate to cats that are getting their appropriate amount of calorie intake per day, which is approximately 25 calories per pound in weight. This chart is for healthy adult cats weighing approximately 8-10lbs. Not overweight or obese cats.
Type / Age of Cat Weight of Canned Food
2 - 10 Years 200g
Geriatric (10 Years +) 160g
Neutered or Spayed 160g
Inactive or Indoor 160g
Treats
Treats are given to cats for different reasons depending on the owner. Surveys have shown that overweight humans are more likely to have overweight pets. They show that overweight people are unable to control their own weight properly due to lack of will power. They have the same lack of will power when their pets are 'begging' for treats.
Treats are often given because it is a way of making the pet feel more welcome. If the owner is out of the house all day, they often make up for it by giving treats. This is the easy way of doing things and totally unhealthy. Rather, making up for it by spending just 5 quality minutes with the pet is far more rewarding. You may decide to simply brush the cat, or you could play with it by throwing a small toy mouse or ball around. Either way, the cat will enjoy being with you more than it will eating a treat, and exercise will aid its health.
Some owners offer treats because they think the cat doesn't eat enough dinner. The treats are designed and flavoured to be 'irresistible' to the cat, and they will eat it whether they are hungry or not. Treats should not be offered for this reason. Providing your cat looks healthy and is the appropriate weight, it will be feeding just fine. If your cat is a poor feeder, they should be tempted by other feeding methods, not with treats.
Higher Risk Cats
Neutered or Spayed
I would like to point out before anything, that the act of neutering or spaying your cat will not make it overweight. Rather, it is how you care for it afterwards that will affect its weight.
A neutered cat loses its desire to 'roam' like an 'intact' cat would do. They are not as inquisitive and generally get less exercise than intact cats. Because of this, their metabolism is slower than normal by around 20-25%. With a slower metabolism, comes a lower need for calories. A neutered or spayed cat should intake approximately 20% less calories.
Breed
Some breeds of cat are naturally slimmer than other breeds; such as the Siamese and Ornamental Short Hair. These breeds are far better at maintaining a good body condition than larger breeds. Pedigree cats are also generally fitter than non-pedigree individuals.
Age
Cats are most likely to become overweight from about 2 to 12 years of age. Younger cats have a much higher metabolism and are more energetic than older individuals. Older cats often eat far less, and it is more common for geriatric cats to become skinnier rather than heavier.
Indoor Cats
Indoor cats have many factors weighing them down. To start with, the most obvious factor is being indoors all the time. There is little stimulation inside, and they will not get the exercise that an outdoor cat will be able to. Many static toys that are offered to indoor cats become boring. They will soon lose interest in scratching posts and similar toys. Repetitive electronic toys can also become predictable and boring. The most enjoyable form of playing for the cat is to interact with the owner. Waving string around or rolling a small ball around will keep the cat amused for far longer.
Being inside all the time also means more contact with the owner is likely. This usually means more treats are given.
The temperature is an important factor too. An outdoor cat will use more energy and have a higher metabolism simply to maintain its body temperature. Cats living in centrally heated houses don't have to use much energy to get their body temperature controlled.
Social Environment
This is an area where you just can't win. There are advantages and disadvantages of having one cat or having multiple cats.
Only cats do not have the same competition for food that a multi-cat household may have. Therefore they may not be as eager to eat as much food and as quickly as a cat in competition with other cats will do. However, only cats are more likely to become bored and have less stimulation around them compared to a cat living with others. Cats have been known to take on habits like humans, such as eating when bored like an only cat may do. They may also eat more when they are stressed, like a cat living in a multi-cat household may do.
A household with more humans is far more likely to inflict extra weight onto a cat. It means more people offering treats, and more people to feed the cat dinner. It is common for many households to become confused as to whether or not the cat has been fed, and if in doubt they will feed it again.
Disabilities
This applies to humans and pets alike. Humans with physical disabilities are less likely to play and exercise their pets. The situation becomes worse if the cat is an indoor cat.
Disabled cats are often 'over-protected' by their owners. Most are automatically turned into indoor cats if they get a disability, and become an excuse for more treats to be offered. Most cats can still exercise and have their mind stimulated with various disabilities. In fact many cats with disabilities will deteriorate quicker if they are not exercised and the mind stimulated properly.
Neighbours
Do you have cat friendly neighbours? Do you know if your cat has gone into other people's houses before? It is common for other cat lovers to feed a cat that has wondered into their house.
If you think this happens, place a tag onto the cat which is clearly visible and ask politely not to feed the cat. Some people will ignore this, thinking it will not do any harm. To get around this, state that you cat has 'Special Dietary Needs'. They are more likely to pay attention when they think feeding them the wrong food could potentially harm them.
By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_M_Jones
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